These two pitches offer a ton of variety and exciting moves.
P1: Pull the roof at two horizontal cracks (crux) and clip a bolt, follow the well protected to the off width section above the bolt. ramp up until you can trend right onto the crimpy 5.9/10 face, stay far right on the face for a yellow TCU in a horizontal crack (alternatively, you can climb a cleaner and easier face to the left and clip a bolt on the unknown route to the left. Your belay crack is in a horizontal at exactly 100 feet, about 15 feet right of the 2nd bolt on the unknown 5.8.
P2:Basically the same as "Egg Hunt" 5.8. Take the easy slab up and right until you can make the exciting step across the arete to the obvious 45 foot fist crack. Hop and stem between a sharp arete, a fist crack, and another nice arete, passing a hug horn out right, and avoiding the vegetation. Rap from the tree 100 feet to the ground (near Sea Wolf)
100 feet right of Comatose. From Comatose; walk right past Bunkeys, past the little gully where Praying Mantis/Beeline starts and a route with a homemade hanger 50 feet up, past another small gully and a locate a route (5.8 name unknown) that starts with a slab move to a bolt 20 feet high. This route starts 15 feet right of that at a ramp to a left facing corner/roof.
from 00 TCU's to 4". take extra runners for the 2nd pitch. The ground is such that even though each pitch is 100 feet, you only need one rope to get down.
Dec 2, 2012
That was fun. Enjoyed the roof move and the fist crack!
|By Mike Reardon|
Jan 6, 2013
A two bolt anchor has been added at 100 ft.