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Dead Mans Spires
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Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident T 
Resurrection Spire T 

Resurrection Spire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,867
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 16, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Resurrection Spire, San Rafael Swell. F.A. 16th Oc...

Description 

Resurrection Spire. 300' III 5.9. C1.

This spire is on the left end (west) of the large spires above the campsite. The central spire also has a route on its north side. It looks a very good line, probably done in the 80s by as yet unknown climbers.

There are several approaches, the easiest is by a stone chute below and right of the three smaller spire formations. Then walk below these smaller spires to the far end and north side of the big spires to Resurrection(one will pass the 80s route up the central spire). Continue to a chimney with a hand crack on its inner wall.

P1) Up the chimney and the hand crack to anchors below a fine slightly overhanging 1" crack. 100' 5.9.(An old failed attempt will be seen about 30' to the right of this pitch)

P2) Follow cracks and grooves to anchors 80' C1. May go free at 5.11+?

P3) Move out left onto a slab, then up right to a steep wall, then left into open groove, (one bolt pro) that leads to the shoulder left of summit. 60' 5.8.

P4) The first step is climbed using three bolts, then continue up second step to a fine summit and register. 60' A0 5.7.

Descend the route via rappel. FA. Paul Ross, Layne Potter. 16th Oct 2003

Protection 

Friends:- Three Aliens. Four #.5 Four #1 Four #1.5. Then three of each up to #4. Medium to large stoppers. Easier to rap with two 200' ropes.


Photos of Resurrection Spire Slideshow Add Photo
P.Ross on P2. Resurrection Spire.
P.Ross on P2. Resurrection Spire.
Paul starting pitch 4
Paul starting pitch 4
Approaching Resurrection spire (spire on far left)
BETA PHOTO: Approaching Resurrection spire (spire on far left)
Paul on first pitch
Paul on first pitch
Leader half way up P2. Belayer at very uncomfortable hanging belay.
BETA PHOTO: Leader half way up P2. Belayer at very uncomfortab...
Layne on the summit with the Weasel/Pinnacle formation in the back ground
Layne on the summit with the Weasel/Pinnacle forma...

Comments on Resurrection Spire Add Comment
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By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 12, 2004

To get to this Spire . Drive 6.1 miles south from the San Rafeal River bridge to a road on the right (west) with a cattle guard. Go down this for 1 mile . At 6/10 of a mile take right turn .Follow to the Wash then left up the wash for a few miles untill spire formation is seen on the right
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 8, 2005

This is actually Tibia Tower, first summited in 1989(?) by Dave Lunt and Bert Stolp. The route up the north face is High Road to Tonapah and saw a couple of attempts by Dave, Bert and Scott Lunt (myself) prior to the first ascent. Scott and Steve Walker did second ascent in 1990(?). Sorry for the confusion on years, I am an old fart. The "failed attempt" on Resurrection was actually our first short attempt done in 1988 with Kyle Ricketts. We thought it might take too much bolting so we moved to the lovely dihedral on the north face. Also, Dave and I attempted one of the shorter spires across from Tibia but retreated as I recall due to a storm (or lack of huevos ... my memory is selective). We didn't promote this area because at the time we thought we could keep the San Rafael to ourselves. Times have changed. I can provide more details if people are interested. I think we rated High Road to Tonapah 5.9 A2. The name Tibia Tower comes from an accident that occured when we first "discovered" the area. A large boulder slid down on Dave's ankle while we were scouting, breaking bones with glee.

Scott Lunt
By Brad Brandewie
Feb 22, 2007

Scott,
I am interested. This kind of background information is one of the best things about this site IMO.

Thanks,
Brad
By jun
Oct 2, 2008

How easy is it to protect the first pitch? I'm thinking of going this Saturday to try it and I don't want to get sketched out on the first pitch.

I'm solid on pitches 3 - 4, but i get unnerved chimneying unprotectable sections. Just curious.
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 3, 2008

If you are asking about Resurrection ,the chimney part of first pitch is easy .The 5.8 Pitch 3 has a bit of run out...