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Respite 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Hare & Hershoff, 1998
Page Views: 698
Submitted By: david goldstein on Sep 20, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola, and Ginseng Rush...

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  • Description 

    Shares the first three bolts of Jolt Cola, then branches left. Place a long runner on the third bolt. Crux from bolts 4 to 6, culminating in an elegant step through.

    There is a second pitch which I haven't done; according to Rolofson it's 7 bolts long with an 11 a/b crux high up and a 100' rap from chains.

    A somewhat worthwhile linkup (Repsi Cola) heads right after the crux and joins Jolt Cola. I've only done this linkup as a top rope from the JC's anchors. To lead it, you'd probably want some long slings, esp. on the last bolt of Respite.


    Protection 

    7 bolts and a two bolt anchor.



    Comments on Respite Add Comment
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    By david goldstein
    Sep 25, 2002

    Some additional info: pitch two is worth doing. Linking P1 & P2 works well, but use an extra long sling at the 3rd bolt. In fact, it's probably a good idea to have a few full length (24") slings. There is an unbolted handcrack on P2 where a gold Camalot works well. The crux is at the roof, ~11a. Done as one pitch, there are 15 bolts to clip.A lower off from the P2 anchors barely makes it with a 60 meter rope.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Oct 14, 2003

    Funky and awkward footwork in the crux. The trick seems to be one of laying away a knob with right and pulling up and into a narrow dihedral, loosing the good feet that preceded. Fourth clip is committing, but after that the line is stitched tight. Decent but not great.

    By Joe Collins
    Jan 26, 2004
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Very tricky climbing. I found this route to be harder than the Ticket, Jolt Cola, and Bearcat goes to Hollywood. The crux can be climbed as a stem problem or a layback off the seam. The stem variation may be easier if you are short enough to get in that position.

    By Chris Archer
    Oct 30, 2004
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    An excellent, thought provoking climb. The crux is difficult to read on the onsight, but becomes quite reasonable once you know what to do. it felt like 12a on the onsight due to the inobvious nature of the crux, but dropped to 11c on repeat ascents once you know what to do. Doing the route in one pitch is the way to go. 98' to the anchors.There is a hidden bolt just above the handcrack and before the first bolt in the bulge. Knowing this reduces the need for the 3Friend/ gold camalot.

    By David A. Turner
    Nov 7, 2004
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    If you carry a blue and green Alien, you can plug one of them and have great pro on Respite, rather than the long sling on the 3rd bolt of Jolt issue.

    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Jan 21, 2010
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

    Fucking brilliant. An awkward pitch, indeed. Didn't climb the second pitch, but the first is weird and Kung Fu balance-y and humiliatingly difficult to score on-sight, as Archer says. Takes far more finesse than fitness.

    Climbing it, though, is a thing of beauty and grace and contorted, good-god fun. Give it two stars, but two stars well worth investing in.

    Haven't exactly sent it clean, myself, yet. But not exactly thrutching and cussing, either. I see red point in three more tries....

    Meanwhile, give 'er a try. Makes a good "think" project for the budding 11+ climber.

    By mike bronson
    Dec 6, 2012

    A trickier crux than anything on Jolt Colt. If you bring some med.-sized cams along and don't lower from the 2nd pitch (I've always linked the two), it is possible to climb the final and best pitch of Where Eagles Dare. Cool combo.