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Resolution and October Surprise. The second pitche...
Resolution was climbed on a balmy, high 50s January 2nd.
Resolution climbs a nice, fun line left of the recently added first pitch to October Surprise. It finishes left of the 10d middle pitch of Under the Eagle's Wing. It is likely a combination of several variations climbed in the past by various people, and thus I'm suggesting this is a FRA, First Recorded Ascent, rather than an FA.
The gear is decent, but due to the reachy nature of several moves, this may be S and harder than 9- for the reach-impaired.
One, maybe 1 1/2 stars. Not quite as nice as P1 of On Ballet due mostly to the inconsistent difficulty. The rock quality is good. On the easier knobby slabs, the gear is sparse, but adequate, and this keeps the interest level up.
Approach: From the top of the Blob approach trail where it meets the crag at the gully, walk left until just before a large vertical flake at the base of the wall. Under the Eagle's Wing starts at the right side of that flake. A little to the right of that you will see two bolts which are the start of the new first pitch of October Surprise. Just left of that is a short, right-facing corner capped by a roof, the start of Resolution.
P1: Climb the corner and swing left through the roof (or perhaps chimney up past the overhang). Protect your second, then angle gently left along grooves following a vague, white dike that becomes more prominent higher up. At one point, where it starts to get a bit difficult, step right and up to another slab. Continue easily to the base of a vertical headwall. To your left is a right-leaning offwidth crack. Get gear high and left then undercling and make a long reach diagonally right across the steep face to an incut jug. You will need approximately a 6' wing span to make this reach. It may be possible to do this move some other, more difficult way. Plan B would be to climb the offwidth through the bulge (not trivial). Bring a #4.5 Camalot for that. Back to the jug... step right across the face and up an easy slab. Angle left a bit to regain the white dike. At a dirty, thin, right-leaning crack through a bulge, step left onto a slab and up to a ledge. Belay somewhere here or traverse right to the On Ballet/October Surprise bolts. If you've managed the rope drag well, continue with P2.
P2: The steep, right-facing corner with a thin crack is Under the Eagle's Wing. Traverse left from the base of that corner* about 6' until it is possible to step up and right into the next shallow, right-facing corner. Get gear high then rock around left onto a foothold and stand. No gear here despite the thin crack at your face. Reach high, if you can, to a knob, and step up to reach past the bulging face to a horizontal. A #2 Camalot protects the easy move onto the upper slab. You are now on the easy slabs on the right side of the Central Chimney. Continue up easily past the right side of a huge block to the bolts at the top of P2 of On Ballet and October Surprise.
- Possible variation: Climb throught the overhang at a jug just left of Under the Eagle's Wing corner at 5.10 or so. Continue up the shallow and friable, left-facing corner or step left to the right facing corner of Resolution. The left-facing corner takes a decent brass nut about halfway up, and it looks like there's a good hold at the top.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope from bolts with rings. Angle right on the first rappel to get to the anchors for On Ballet/October Surprise.
Singles from medium brass to #4 Camalot. Long slings.
|By George Bracksieck|
Feb 2, 2013
This route has good climbing. It now has three recently placed bolts, plus a new two-bolt anchor, about 20 feet left of the anchors atop the first pitch of On Ballet.
On 1/31/13, I started farther left, left of the big tooth-shaped boulder next to the base of the cliff. I led a right-diagonalling wide-ish crack around a bulge. I continued up and right, eventually clipping a new bolt that seems left of Resolution, as described herein. I continued up and right, clipping the third of the new bolts that is ON Resolution. I belayed Leo up to the new two-bolt anchor, which is perfectly situated under the second pitch of under the Eagle's Wing, which he led next. After doing the third pitch of Charisma, we rapped to the ground and toproped Resolution as described herein. All its three new bolts seem unnecessary if you are willing to fiddle with gear and extend some of the placements. The bolts make the cruxes well-protected, though.
| || |This photo shows the right-angling, wide-ish crack. Above, I am clipping a new bolt that seems left of Resolution. Above it, the third new bolt on Resolution may be visible. I clipped it, too. Down and to the right of me is a short, left-angling, wide-ish crack. Just to its right is Resolution's second bolt, which protects a long reach to a hidden bucket up and right. Photo by Leo Paik.
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Feb 2, 2013