Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ivan Rezucha, 01/02/06 |
Page Views: | 1,509 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Jan 1, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob closed 2/1/24
Details
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk
Details
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Resolution was climbed on a balmy, high 50s January 2nd.
Resolution climbs a nice, fun line left of the recently added first pitch to October Surprise. It finishes left of the 10d middle pitch of Under the Eagle's Wing. It is likely a combination of several variations climbed in the past by various people, and thus I'm suggesting this is a FRA, First Recorded Ascent, rather than an FA.
The gear is decent, but due to the reachy nature of several moves, this may be S and harder than 9- for the reach-impaired.
One, maybe 1 1/2 stars. Not quite as nice as P1 of On Ballet due mostly to the inconsistent difficulty. The rock quality is good. On the easier knobby slabs, the gear is sparse, but adequate, and this keeps the interest level up.
Approach: From the top of the Blob approach trail where it meets the crag at the gully, walk left until just before a large vertical flake at the base of the wall. Under the Eagle's Wing starts at the right side of that flake. A little to the right of that you will see two bolts which are the start of the new first pitch of October Surprise. Just left of that is a short, right-facing corner capped by a roof, the start of Resolution.
P1: Climb the corner and swing left through the roof (or perhaps chimney up past the overhang). Protect your second, then angle gently left along grooves following a vague, white dike that becomes more prominent higher up. At one point, where it starts to get a bit difficult, step right and up to another slab. Continue easily to the base of a vertical headwall. To your left is a right-leaning offwidth crack. Get gear high and left then undercling and make a long reach diagonally right across the steep face to an incut jug. You will need approximately a 6' wing span to make this reach. It may be possible to do this move some other, more difficult way. Plan B would be to climb the offwidth through the bulge (not trivial). Bring a #4.5 Camalot for that. Back to the jug... step right across the face and up an easy slab. Angle left a bit to regain the white dike. At a dirty, thin, right-leaning crack through a bulge, step left onto a slab and up to a ledge. Belay somewhere here or traverse right to the On Ballet/October Surprise bolts. If you've managed the rope drag well, continue with P2.
P2: The steep, right-facing corner with a thin crack is Under the Eagle's Wing. Traverse left from the base of that corner* about 6' until it is possible to step up and right into the next shallow, right-facing corner. Get gear high then rock around left onto a foothold and stand. No gear here despite the thin crack at your face. Reach high, if you can, to a knob, and step up to reach past the bulging face to a horizontal. A #2 Camalot protects the easy move onto the upper slab. You are now on the easy slabs on the right side of the Central Chimney. Continue up easily past the right side of a huge block to the bolts at the top of P2 of On Ballet and October Surprise.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope from bolts with rings. Angle right on the first rappel to get to the anchors for On Ballet/October Surprise.
Resolution climbs a nice, fun line left of the recently added first pitch to October Surprise. It finishes left of the 10d middle pitch of Under the Eagle's Wing. It is likely a combination of several variations climbed in the past by various people, and thus I'm suggesting this is a FRA, First Recorded Ascent, rather than an FA.
The gear is decent, but due to the reachy nature of several moves, this may be S and harder than 9- for the reach-impaired.
One, maybe 1 1/2 stars. Not quite as nice as P1 of On Ballet due mostly to the inconsistent difficulty. The rock quality is good. On the easier knobby slabs, the gear is sparse, but adequate, and this keeps the interest level up.
Approach: From the top of the Blob approach trail where it meets the crag at the gully, walk left until just before a large vertical flake at the base of the wall. Under the Eagle's Wing starts at the right side of that flake. A little to the right of that you will see two bolts which are the start of the new first pitch of October Surprise. Just left of that is a short, right-facing corner capped by a roof, the start of Resolution.
P1: Climb the corner and swing left through the roof (or perhaps chimney up past the overhang). Protect your second, then angle gently left along grooves following a vague, white dike that becomes more prominent higher up. At one point, where it starts to get a bit difficult, step right and up to another slab. Continue easily to the base of a vertical headwall. To your left is a right-leaning offwidth crack. Get gear high and left then undercling and make a long reach diagonally right across the steep face to an incut jug. You will need approximately a 6' wing span to make this reach. It may be possible to do this move some other, more difficult way. Plan B would be to climb the offwidth through the bulge (not trivial). Bring a #4.5 Camalot for that. Back to the jug... step right across the face and up an easy slab. Angle left a bit to regain the white dike. At a dirty, thin, right-leaning crack through a bulge, step left onto a slab and up to a ledge. Belay somewhere here or traverse right to the On Ballet/October Surprise bolts. If you've managed the rope drag well, continue with P2.
P2: The steep, right-facing corner with a thin crack is Under the Eagle's Wing. Traverse left from the base of that corner* about 6' until it is possible to step up and right into the next shallow, right-facing corner. Get gear high then rock around left onto a foothold and stand. No gear here despite the thin crack at your face. Reach high, if you can, to a knob, and step up to reach past the bulging face to a horizontal. A #2 Camalot protects the easy move onto the upper slab. You are now on the easy slabs on the right side of the Central Chimney. Continue up easily past the right side of a huge block to the bolts at the top of P2 of On Ballet and October Surprise.
- Possible variation: Climb throught the overhang at a jug just left of Under the Eagle's Wing corner at 5.10 or so. Continue up the shallow and friable, left-facing corner or step left to the right facing corner of Resolution. The left-facing corner takes a decent brass nut about halfway up, and it looks like there's a good hold at the top.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope from bolts with rings. Angle right on the first rappel to get to the anchors for On Ballet/October Surprise.
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