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Reslung alien- how's this look?
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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Aug 28, 2012
caughtinside wrote:
That isn't a danger here. The sling is actually tied through the loop. There is no way for it to thread through and disconnect from the loop without untying the knot. You tend to see guys using rubber bands/tape/String on the biner end where disattachment is a possibility.

Indeed you are correct, I missed that. Thanks.

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By skiclimber
Aug 28, 2012
jibbing at chasm lake
Don't send anything to Metolius for re slinging. My friend sent a set of TCU's for reslinging. Instead of re slinging them Metolious clipped all the trigger cables and sent them back saying they were too old to resling.

I can understand not reslinging them, but clipping the triggers, Ugghhh.

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By wivanoff
Aug 28, 2012
High Exposure
miwuksurfer wrote:
Wivanoff, that sling is more expensive than having Metolius resling that at the factory.


BD 18mm x 30cm nylon sling = $3.95
What does Metolius charge for not clipping your trigger wires?

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By Blissab
Aug 28, 2012
Homemade reslung gear is just sketchy and dangerous. This stuff and disco died back in the 70's and should not return.

Don't risk water knots becoming untied. Its not just your health and safety at risk...consider the person you're swinging leads with that is using your homemade crap, that falls apart at the wrong moment. You may have to live with the fact that you were responsible for someone's climbing injury, because you thought your water-knots were cute and you wanted to save a couple of bucks. Your buddy's spinal injury is far more expensive than the cost of shipping and handling for bomb-proof spectra stitched gear slings.

Not worth it, considering everything else that needs attention, when multi-pitch trad climbing. Just resling your cams professionally.

I have had my old gear reslung at Ragged Mountain Equipment, in Intervale, New Hampshire.

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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Aug 28, 2012
That rig is bomber. I've got cams on my rack slung that way and they're perfectly fine. As others have said, when I tie on a new sling I tighten it by bouncing with body-weight and make sure I have 2" of tail. Backing up the main webbing with the tail is a cool idea but not really necessary, notice that when Aliens come from the factory they only have a single loop of webbing.

Another great trick is to double the webbing up by looping it through the thumb loop twice creating an extendable sling. A couple of companies were selling cams set up this way. Look around the web, you'll find a picture out there somewhere.

A 12" runner basket hitched would be equally bomber and you could still extend it by pulling one end through the loop creating a girth hitch but I don't like the way the runner is not actually attached to the cam.

Pretty soon the well intentioned but clueless will come up with a reason you can't make your own runners with 9/16" webbing and water knots or that slinging your hexes with knotted cord is dangerous.

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By rogerbenton
Aug 28, 2012
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.
i retied it with loger tails after rgold yelled at me,
replaced the rubber band with climbing tape after it broke the second time,
and have been using it ever since.
no falls, but it's definitely held weight.
i did the bounce tightening thing and i check it when i rack up at every route, that knot hasn't budged since may.

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By Blissab
Aug 28, 2012
That rig is not bomber!

There is not a significant enough of a tail on the water knot (2-inches minimum).

The water knot appears to have not been loaded significantly and as required to tighten and prevent the knot from loosening.

One will find that multiple cams slung with homemade water-knots are considerably cumbersome and heavy, as compared to sewn slings.

Who is going to swing leads with someone with a bunch of old knotted slings?

With wear/tear and time, the rubber band will degrade and some water-knots in the many homemade slings will loosen. Hopefully, not at the wrong moment.

With all these considerations and concerns, yes, one could continue to re-sling cams with water-knotted webbing. One could also continue to lead on gold-line and be given hip-belays...progress in technology!

Your choice.

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By rogerbenton
Aug 28, 2012
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.
blissab- read my last post



also- this is a reslung cam, not a reslung rack.
i have one cam on my rack with a homemade sling.
one.
not all.
just one.
if i'm swinging leads with anyone i'm looking at their gear and judging for myself if it's safe, they are doing the same with mine.
someone has a problem with this cam, we'll use theirs. no prob.
but mine works fine.
and now i'm used to the green.
i like it.
it's here to stay.
i've never used a hip belay.

thanks to all for the helpful advice re: tail length and bouncing.

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By RyanJames
Aug 29, 2012
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky
I have three cams on my rack that are slung the EXACT same way! Totally bomber! Just make sure you frequently check the tightness of the knots.

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By matt davies
Aug 29, 2012
After further review.... bomber

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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Aug 29, 2012
Blissab, I think that Rogerbentons last post, as well as mine, addressed all of your concerns about safety. Two inch tails? Check. Tighten the hell out of that knot? Check. Like I said I've got cams slung this way and I've fallen on them. Bomber. Nobody said anything about "old knotted slings," that webbing looks petty new to me.

What your comments scream to me is a lack of experience. The only people who have ever blinked when I pulled out my self-reslung cams are folks who haven't been climbing that long, at least not away from the gym or sport crag. The guys who have been at it for a couple of decades know how kosher that set-up is. If this cam scares you don't EVER go climbing with Don Mellor!!

"Cumbersome and heavy?" You're joking, right?

As for hip belays you should learn them. Way effective for belaying a second on slab terrain where you have to suck in rope as fast as they can run uphill. Also a nifty trick for easy alpine terrain or belaying through a short hard section on an otherwise easy route.

I'm not picking on anybody or looking to start a never-ending argument, I'm just saying.

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By Blissab
Aug 29, 2012
The original question was: "Is this Kosher or Dangerous". Given the photograph of the reslung cam...the answer remains: sketchy, due to the fact, that the knot is not tighten properly and there is not enough tail extension. The possibility of failure is real, due to these conditions. The cam rig in the photograph would scare me and anyone who has been climbing for any period of time. This is the original question at hand. Not what knots Don Mellor uses.

Granted, someone who is experienced, compentent and diligent with regard to constant inspection during use would probably have no problem. In fact, back in the 80's my gear was slung in such a fashion (as everyone else's) and indeed all the knots and thick webbing for all the rigid friends, hexes and draws were a "pain in the A$$" and were heavy, as compared to stitched slings now.

That said, one would believe that someone inexperienced probably should seek professional services to resling gear, in my opinion. If someone has to ask if this is "Kosher of Dangerous" on the internet, the extra dollars going to stitched reslung gear may be beneficial.

To each their own...just saying.

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By DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Aug 29, 2012
I tie my slings with both strands of webbing going back through the overhand knot. It looks like a slip knot, except the cable goes through the slip part so it can't come undone. I also pass the tail back through so that both tails end up together on the inside of the loop. It helps keep everything nice and neat and compact with no loose ends sticking out.

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By Mike
From Phoenix
Aug 29, 2012
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.
Blissab wrote:
...The cam rig in the photograph would scare me and anyone who has been climbing for any period of time. ...


I've been climbing for a little while and it looks good to me. A professional re-sling job would be preferable due to decreased weight & bulk. However as far as holding a fall, that looks solid.

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By miwuksurfer
From Santa Barbara
Aug 29, 2012
Having a TCU reslung at the factory costs $3. You will have to pay for shipping also, but if you send a bunch in at once, that cuts down on the cost of shipping per cam.

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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Aug 30, 2012
Blissab, are you just not reading what people are writing? THE TAILS HAVE BEEN LENGTHENED TO 2"!! THE KNOT HAS BEEN TIGHTENED WITH BODYWEIGHT!! Your statement was "homemade reslung gear is just sketchy and dangerous" and that statement is simply wrong. Do you disagree that a cam slung with a properly tied water knot is safe? If so you are wrong!

I'm always looking for an excuse for my lackluster climbing performance, maybe I'll start blaming my knotted slings for weighing me down. Ummmm, no, on second thought that will end up in the "Stupid things climbers said" thread pretty quickly.

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Sep 16, 2012
blah
This is more about my experience with re-slinging aliens i have a bunch of older cch units where repeated falls on the kinda thinnish single loop sling started to rip the plastic tubing away from the cable... i got all my stuff re done with re-enforced nylon like a c4 sling and its caused the deformation and tearing of the tubing to stop. I have all my cams with a thumb loop on a re-enforced sling the seem much better off after a hard fall. Some of my older aliens were so kinked the tubing cracked and peeled off. Not so anymore....really happy with how it worked out...just my .002

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Sep 16, 2012
blah
This is more about my experience with re-slinging aliens i have a bunch of older cch units where repeated falls on the kinda thinnish single loop sling started to rip the plastic tubing away from the cable... i got all my stuff re done with re-enforced nylon like a c4 sling and its caused the deformation and tearing of the tubing to stop. I have all my cams with a thumb loop on a re-enforced sling the seem much better off after a hard fall. Some of my older aliens were so kinked the tubing cracked and peeled off. Not so anymore....really happy with how it worked out...just my .002

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By rogerbenton
Sep 16, 2012
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.
just read his through again and i would like to make a couple points:

- i'm still alive

- the tails on the knot haven't budged yet, still checking them at each rack up (i'll snap a pic next time)

- samsonight's post truly cracks me up every single time i read it



thanks again for all the opinions. To recap:

- best is to have cams reslung professionally, ideally bd c4 style on cams like this with a thumb loop.

- in the meantime, 9/16" nylon tube webbing will work given that the tails of the water knot are sufficiently long (2" or better), the rig gets bounce tested to tighten the knot, and the user checks the knot frequently.

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