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Again, the route is just down below the area favorites Die Heeda Rule
and Brother Jug
, but above Tombstone
. Locate "The Bowling Alley
", a 60' tall flared chimney with a huge "ball" stuck in the top. Climb up this chimney only as far as necessary to pull onto the wall to the left and make your way to the arete. The route felt harder than the 10b/c it was given, but that may have been due to the amount of dirt and lichen on it, which made it feel insecure.
Pull left to the arete and climb up to the top. There is a fixed rap in the vicinity, but a new one could be of use.
This route will improve with cleaning or traffic, but is no reason in and of itself to make the area a destination. Do the good routes first!
This is rated S. Rossiter says that there is a bolt on the route, but there sure isn't one now. I could not find a drilled hole either. Like Plinth
and other area face routes, the pro is not much to talk about. You take a standard rack and live with the runouts or TR.
By Mark Roth
Feb 6, 2010
Wrong gully! This route starts way left of the Bowling Alley.... Probably why Tony didn't see the bolt.