Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Reservoir Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Unknown T 
Carruthers-Hauser T 
Cyborg T 
Dr. Carl T 
Ernie Used to Box T 
Excuse Station T 
Finger Food T 
From Switzerland With Love T 
Frosted Flakes T 
Good Excuse T 
Gurka T 
Left Crack T 
Less Than Zero T 
Machete T 
Marvelous! T 
Middle Crack T 
Mud dahbber  T 
Ninja T 
No Excuse T 
Overlook, The T 
Pat's Crack T 
Pente T 
Pirate Treasure  T 
Raja T 
Rez Dawgs T 
Sharka Zulu T 
Skank on the Hanglow T 
Slot Machine T 
Sumo T 
Three Fools T 
Trust it T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.11- T 
Unknown Offwidth T 
Unnamed 38 T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) T 
Warm-Up Handcrack T 
Wigglin' Worm T 
Will-Mento T 

Reservoir Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.08324, -109.56235 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 130,897
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben F on Nov 30, 1999
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Happened upon this rock fall just as the dust was ...
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This cliff stays shaded for much of the day and is good during the late spring or early fall. Overall, route concentration here isnít quite as high as some other cliffs, but route quality is.

Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldnít be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you donít want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.


Getting There 

Go approximately 8 miles past Newspaper Rock. Pass the reservoir on your right. Just a bit further down the road and also on your right, across from the road for Beef Basin, is the parking for this wall. Pass through the gate and veer slightly right, eventually hitting a trail. There are 2 branches off this trail. The first one puts you closer to the road, near Pente and the further trail leads you to about where Excuse Station is.


39 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',13],['5.11',13],['5.12',9],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Reservoir Wall:
Dr. Carl   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Warm-Up Handcrack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Carruthers-Hauser   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Unknown 5.11-   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Pente   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Wigglin' Worm   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Finger Food   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 80'   
Trust it   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Ernie Used to Box   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Slot Machine   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Excuse Station   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Ninja   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Overlook   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Gurka   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Frosted Flakes   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Middle Crack   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 60'   
Marvelous!   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Less Than Zero   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cyborg   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 90'   
From Switzerland With Love   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad, 2 pitches, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Reservoir Wall

Featured Route For Reservoir Wall
Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).

Excuse Station 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall
This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Reservoir Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Em getting her groove on the technical, eldo-esque start of Dr. Carl.
Em getting her groove on the technical, eldo-esque...
Resevior Wall is tall and clean, giving rise to fantastic features, both climbed and unclimbed. Photo of unknown tower and corner at the Rez by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Resevior Wall is tall and clean, giving rise to fa...
I believe this shot was taken looking back toward the road from the Resevior Wall approach. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
I believe this shot was taken looking back toward ...
The crux move on "from switzerland with love"
The crux move on "from switzerland with love"
Chris Parks on the walk down from Resevoir Wall at Sunset. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
BETA PHOTO: Chris Parks on the walk down from Resevoir Wall at...
the weather on it's way..
the weather on it's way..
Comments on Reservoir Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 25, 2001

I was told (this past week) that climbing on the portions of the cliff facing the road is not a problem. However, approach as stated above and do not cross the private property. Note that this is what I "heard" and it needs to be verified as does my closure warning.

By Rob T
Sep 11, 2006

As of May of 06, Heidi(Dugout Ranch) would still prefer that climbers not climb on the front face of Resevoir. It sucks, but there are tons of walls down there, i don't think we really need to force the issue on this one.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Oct 17, 2009

Not sure if the access has changed, but it doesn't seem as if anyone is following/ know about these guidelines as there is no information actually posted at any of the bulletin boards or at the wall.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jun 29, 2010

big rock fell around the over look speedy Gonzalez area mid June .. hope the two routs made it? this wall is coming apart. over the last ten years i have seen it falling off from pods wall to excuse station!