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Reservoir Ridge
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Crack Face T,TR 
Errors of Our Ways S 
Goodro's Chimney T 
I Ran To Afghanistan S 
Iraq in the Back Attack S 
Reservoir Ridge T 
Unknown Trad Line T 
War Clamor S 
Unsorted Routes:

Reservoir Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,460
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

Exposed ridge climbing that is easy and easy to protect. A must do for those practicing longer trad routes. The descent is kind of awkward... scrambling up and east. That is unless the new anchors on the east face will work for rappelling off.


Protection 

Bring a normal rack. There are anchors along the ridge used for the east face now. Belay station 1 had 1 piton, as did belay station 2.



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By MHanson
From: SLC, UT
Jul 29, 2006

If you want to cut the last pitch short the rap anchors for the last sport climb to the right will get you down easily.

By Lee Gitlin
Sep 3, 2006
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c

Took my daughter here for her first-ever climbing experience. Super easy climbing, barely above 4th class. Good habits can be taught here (e.g. looking down at the feet, as hands can be used almost exclusively for balance.) We only did pitch one, on which there are two pitons and two bolts as fixed protection, followed by the anchor chains for the east facing wall. Comfortable leaders could leave the trad rack behind with all that fixed pro, but we chose to practice gear placements and removal.

All in all, a good route for teaching. It's maybe a two minute walk from parking, along the old dam, which terminates very close to the start of the route. One caveat: top roping pitch one will result in quite a bit of rope drag along the belay station ledge.

By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 4, 2006

WTF? Why are people putting bolts on these things? Resevoir Ridge has PLENTY of natural protection. It is a complete waste of bolts and effort. This climb probably holds little interest except for new leaders wanting practice placing pro, or (as Lee did) for taking children out for some easy trad climbing. Somebody PLEASE remove those bolts. I suggest giving one to Tyler and one to Tony, to be placed on any NEW routes that they wish!

By Lee Gitlin
Sep 4, 2006
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c

We did pitch two today, which was relatively enjoyable. There is a fixed piton at belay station #1 and also a nice crack that took a number 5(?) metolius. The rap chains for the southernmost route on the Main Wall were within easy reach of belay station #2.

Pitch 2 actually has a 5.4 "crux," if there is such a thing, which is about the only time anything resembling technical climbing is required. Some exposure can be had by moving out onto the face.

Pitch 3 is really a 4th class arete scramble. I lost interest after about 75 feet at a small juniper tree. I downclimbed back to belay station #2, so am really not sure about the exit.

Do yourself a favor and bail after pitch 2. Use the rap anchors and lower off the east wall.

By Brian in SLC
Sep 29, 2006

I solo this route from time to time. Seems like I always exit by down climbing to the west (working down corners and trending sort of towards the Transformer Wall area). Always seem to pick up a wad of bail slings enroute.

Great rock. Nice position. Easy off would be one of the rap anchors to the east if you didn't want to climb higher on the ridge.

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

I really didn't enjoy this route at all. Maybe because I expected it to be a classic. I wouldn't do this route again, unless I was taking a 5 year old.

By builttospill
Apr 23, 2008

Like Brian, I've soloed this route a couple of times. I did again last night. The descent to the East, that I've always done, sucks.

I feel like it would probably be easier to downclimb the route itself than descend the gully to the east (just north of the East face climbs). Loose dirt, moss, and lots of mud in the gully/chimney, make this not fun.

Next time I'll either downclimb the route or downclimb the route partially back to one of the belay stations for the east face routes and rap. If you're climbing this route with a rope there is absolutely no reason not to simply climb back down to the belay anchor you pass and rap from there.

Agreed that it is mostly class 4. Significantly easier even than the 5.5 routes at Storm Mountain Island.