Pitch one - follow blocky ground up and left to a small tree (very dirty). Pass the tree on the left to reach a some slab climbing to a two bolt anchor (165').
Pitch two - follow slabby Flatiron-esque climbing to a notch where you encounter a short crux section (5.6), and belay at the top of the pitch (100').
From the stream, ascend a steep slope and some talus to the low point of the rock. Follow a trail east for 100 yards to an "arete" (see photo). The route climbs the left side of this "arete".
BETA PHOTO: Jim nears the first belay.
BETA PHOTO: Jim leads pitch two.
|By Wes B.|
Oct 14, 2010
Not sure if this is a FA for us, but according to Rick Blair (fellow MPer) and some of his resources, it very well may have been. Apparently the bolts we found were from a rescue in the past. Our route showed no signs of recent passage, but if this is your route, let me know.
|By John Layko Torkleson|
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
As of 4/29/12, the bolts at the top of pitch 1 are in good shape. There is some tat that we didn't use, because it looked pretty rotten. I would have replaced it if I had brought extra webbing.
Overall, not a bad route. Not stellar, but the little ledge at the end of pitch one is pretty nice and has a very cool view down the canyon. Head up the dirty gully until you look left and see a two bolt anchor on a ramp, these are not for you. From here, head straight up the slab in front of you for full value or continue bushwhacking. After another 8-10 feet, look up and right to see the two bolt anchor you are heading for. The climbing actually starts getting good with some nice slab moves.
The second pitch is much better then the first. I wish it were longer. From the belay, climb straight up shooting for the notch in the headwall above you. Regardless of direction (through the notch or around to the left), the headwall is where you will encounter the 5.6 business. Not super hard, but they make you think about what you are doing instead of just reaching up from edge to edge. There is a cool little meadow at the top for a picnic.
As far as a rack, we used everything from a red tri-cam to a #2 BD stopper to a #3 Friend to a slung flake. A few wide pieces and some long runners will make your day easier.
We got lost on the walk off and bushwhacked way harder than we needed to. Rapping may be a good idea.
With some more traffic, the route would clean up quite a bit. I still think this is worth doing if you want a little trad adventure and don't mind getting dirty.