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Follow the same start as Fox Confessor till the third bolt. At this point head straight up into an amazing kneebar (rt). Rest up to be prepared for two high cruxs on the climb with a decent recovery in between.
While lowering clip into the bolt by the kneebar or below. Failure to do so will result in a bath in the falls. There are multiple leaver-biners on the climb to assist with cleaning. Recommend cleaning entirely from the top.
Far left side of the Mez. Look for a belay bolt beneath it, and a gravelly, slick rock ramp of doom that would shoot you off into the rocks and water if you let it.
Stick clip first bolt.
8 to 9 draws. The last bolt is not necessary at the time of posting.
Keep an eye on the hanger under the final roof, it has become loose before.
Tyler Hoffart moving into the crux of Requiem
Aug 14, 2013
May I add:
The value of this rock climb's location/position is very high. When I first lowered down over this rig to hopefully equip it, I was simply taken back by the exposure and grand nature of it. For the redpoint crux (coming out of high roof), you must let your feet cut loose, high up, pretty much exactly straight above that ragin beauty of a falls, let em rip free and GO FOR IT!
It is quite exhilarating. More peeps need to go send this thing!
CONGRATULATIONS to Ryan Cowell for taking care of it. I'll get back at it again, hopefully this fall. You have inspired me again!