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Willow River State Park
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Requiem 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Ryan Cowell
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: Ryan C. on Aug 13, 2013

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Ryan Cowell moving up into the crux of Requiem

Open with restrictions: MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow the same start as Fox Confessor till the third bolt. At this point head straight up into an amazing kneebar (rt). Rest up to be prepared for two high cruxs on the climb with a decent recovery in between.

While lowering clip into the bolt by the kneebar or below. Failure to do so will result in a bath in the falls. There are multiple leaver-biners on the climb to assist with cleaning. Recommend cleaning entirely from the top.

Location 

Far left side of the Mez. Look for a belay bolt beneath it, and a gravelly, slick rock ramp of doom that would shoot you off into the rocks and water if you let it.

Protection 

Stick clip first bolt.
8 to 9 draws. The last bolt is not necessary at the time of posting.
Keep an eye on the hanger under the final roof, it has become loose before.


Photos of Requiem Slideshow Add Photo
Hanging out on the Mez with Wei and Isaac on Requi...
Hanging out on the Mez with Wei and Isaac on Requi...
Tyler Hoffart moving into the crux of Requiem
Tyler Hoffart moving into the crux of Requiem
Whether you dyno, campus or hold the swing and get...
Whether you dyno, campus or hold the swing and get...

Comments on Requiem Add Comment
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By Tyler
Aug 14, 2013

May I add:
The value of this rock climb's location/position is very high. When I first lowered down over this rig to hopefully equip it, I was simply taken back by the exposure and grand nature of it. For the redpoint crux (coming out of high roof), you must let your feet cut loose, high up, pretty much exactly straight above that ragin beauty of a falls, let em rip free and GO FOR IT!
It is quite exhilarating. More peeps need to go send this thing!
CONGRATULATIONS to Ryan Cowell for taking care of it. I'll get back at it again, hopefully this fall. You have inspired me again!
By KurtH
Aug 8, 2014
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

Crux hold on the final roof broke the other day. Definitely harder! ...still doable, but the crux sequence has changed some...arguably even cooler now...
By KurtH
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

Amazing climb - never done anything like this nor expect to again. Two huge feet cutting cruxes over a waterfall...quite stellar. Hope to see more folks on this soon!

I found the hold break to make the climb substantially more challenging. In my opinion, the upper crux is now a V-grade harder. For me it required a second dyno as I was not strong enough to hold the swing then get my feet over the buldge. I also have a 6'6" wing span, so I could see this being a climb where shorter folks find the grade to be much more "D".