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Requesting info on a Smuggler's Notch boulder problem
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By eddysamson
Jun 18, 2014

I discovered this climb last week and found it again on Monday, but haven't given it a go yet. Its a short hike up behind the Biscuit boulder. Its up and to the left from Biscuit. Looks like it starts down in a cave on an undercling (that has been wet)and climbs out of the cave on some heinous crimps, my guess on looking at it is its a V7-9. There is chalk on the crimps on the face coming out of the cave so I know its been at least attempted. Anyone familiar with this climb? Will post pictures after I go back to the Notch tomorrow.


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jun 18, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

Brother John, perhaps, or maybe the Tome Roof Problem?


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By eddysamson
Jun 19, 2014

I've been wondering what the Tomb Roof problem was after I saw it mentioned on the forum here a few weeks ago. Could be that and maybe it starts lower in the cave than the undercling for a full roof section. I don't think its Brother John.


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By Nate K
From Bozeman, MT
Jun 19, 2014
dirt bagging around cody

I was up there last week and a couple of guys looked around for this problem, apparently its hard to find. They didn't know the name/grade of it either. Good luck


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By eddysamson
Jun 19, 2014

Nate K wrote:
I was up there last week and a couple of guys looked around for this problem, apparently its hard to find. They didn't know the name/grade of it either. Good luck


Hey Nate! Pretty sure that was me on Monday you saw looking for it!


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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
Jun 20, 2014
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

Definitely not Tome's Roof, although I'm not exactly sure what problem you are talking about. If you are looking for Tome's, look for a trail to the left of the recently burned down restrooms, follow this for about 40 seconds and it is very obviously on your left. You know you are on the right path if you aren't making any turns and you passed a V0 on your left. It is a short walk from the parking lot, so don't go bushwhacking in the wrong direction! Good luck!


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By eddysamson
Jun 20, 2014

Okay I have a much better idea of where this problem is now. Its on the opposite side of the cave from Green Mountain Gringo (up from the tourist info hut). If you walk in the cave from GMG side go straight to the opposite side which goes down kind of in a hole. The climb I found starts down in this hole and comes up out of the cave on the other side (towards Biscuit but above it) on crimps. After pulling on it I think its harder than my original assessment although a key hold was wet so we shall see. I want to say V9/10.

Here's a bad pic

You can see the hole at the bottom you climb up out of
You can see the hole at the bottom you climb up out of


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jun 20, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

Hmmm, the picture isn't bringing anything to mind, though I haven't bouldered up there regularly in about 6 years. In the cave are several problems we sent that have not been documented. One if which is the crack in the back of the cave on the right wall (same side as 'while you were greening') that we called "sun's out, guns out", and goes at about V4.

There are also several problems up to the left or "Bejeezus". A highball V3 prow called "Chickenhead Arete", a slopey problem to the left if that that goes at about V6, and several up behind the Yosemite boulder that Bill Patton, myself and a few others put up back in 2002/2003, two of which are "Who's Got The Chicken" and the "Batwing".


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By eddysamson
Jun 20, 2014

Chris Duca wrote:
Hmmm, the picture isn't bringing anything to mind, though I haven't bouldered up there regularly in about 6 years. In the cave are several problems we sent that have not been documented. One if which is the crack in the back of the cave on the right wall (same side as 'while you were greening') that we called "sun's out, guns out", and goes at about V4. There are also several problems up to the left or "Bejeezus". A highball V3 prow called "Chickenhead Arete", a slopey problem to the left if that that goes at about V6, and several up behind the Yosemite boulder that Bill Patton, myself and a few others put up back in 2002/2003, two of which are "Who's Got The Chicken" and the "Batwing".


I will try to get better pictures tomorrow. Basically its down in a basement section of the cave and it starts on the belly of a boulder in the cave and climbs out the belly onto the nose/face of that boulder. It was chalked and ticked when I found it.


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By eddysamson
Jun 21, 2014

Oh I finally talked to someone that knows. I guess its an old project that had a hold break making it a lot harder. Someone must be back at it. I know the guy I talked to will be trying it in a few days.


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