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I really can't see how it took me so many years to get around to climbing this route.... It is now one of my favorite routes on the Thin Air Face.... It is a bit spicy at the crux, requiring a cool head and solid skills, but if you have those (or a solid ropegun) waste no time, go out and climb it....
Most folks who have climbed a bit at Cathedral have enjoyed a link up that included the famous Toe Crack (5.7), that is just one of the stellar pitches of Repulsion....
Pitch 1: 5.8 Start up the easy dike below toe crack.... Climb this till you get to a convenient bolt just as you head in to the harder than it looks climbing above.... Make a move left to a thin crack (takes TCUs well) and find your way (tricky) up the cracks to a few more interesting moves left and up in to easier climbing on to the nice ledge below the Toe Crack.... Belay from gear....
Pitch 2: 5.7 Climb the 100 foot perfect, 5.7, hand crack above.... Some painful jams and tricky moves, but for the most part it's just plain fun.... If this is a challenging grade for you, maybe bring extra hand and or wide hand cams.... When the crack ends, continue up the face and beautiful arete to a bolt with a funky home made hanger, and step right in to a belay on Standard Route at a tree with a rap anchor on it...
Pitch 3: 5.8+ R or 5.9 R This one is a bit heady at times.... Climb out of the cave on to the face and climb fun and easy moves on quartz holds until the going gets tough.... At this point, protect as high as you can.... Step down and left and out on to an exposed face with small crimps.... Make tricky moves as your gear gets further away and a bit farther to the left than you might like... fish in some gear and step up and right to mantel on to a nice ledge (watch for big loose rock here).... belay from pin and a bolt....
pitch4: At this point, you can continue up the arete at 5.9 R (it felt 5.10 when i tried) or break right and finish in the Standard Route chimney.... Belay from sturdy trees in a nice location below the finish gully of Standard....
Pitch 5: Climb the gully and exit right (5.4 in the guidebook)...or finish up a kinda dirty corner on the left side of the gully up a dike to the boulder problem finish on Thin Air. This variation felt 5.7 to me, but you can be the judge....
There are many points on this route where you can escape on to the Standard Route (5.7). Just make sure that when you get in to the crux, you plan to finish it....
Start up the dike below toe crack on the far right side of the Thin Air Face....
Standard rack to #3 Camalot.... You will also run in to pins and a couple of bolts....
Aug 10, 2009
P3 is great fun. Very Gunks-like move over the overhang. I would suggest building the anchor on the ledge immediately after pulling the overhang in order to watch your second come up from below. The rest of the climb however, is a bit dirty.
|By Ryan Barber|
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 2, 2011
Just climbed it today. But the rock was soaking wet from a thunderstorm which happened prior, so instead of going left after the bolt at the beginning dike, I went right and followed the blocky crack structure up right and around a bulge (which I think is the beginning of diagonal. Then I went straight up about 10 to 15 feet through a dirty corner (wet, slippery, and awkward / scary) up onto the ledge above. After belaying my second, we walked left to the base of the "Toe Crack" which was could be one of the best 5.7 crack I've ever climbed. Another thunderstorm rained us off at the top of the toe crack Epic.
|By kevin neville|
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
P3, I slung the anchor tree high and moved up the arete, clipped a piton, slung another tree at the level of the cave. The guidebook (Handren) calls this unprotected 5.7, I found it easy and safe (5.6 PG). Then left 15 feet along a ledge to the thin vertical crack, and up to the second overlap. There is no pin there, but it takes small cams. Some other route continues up and left, more polished and chalked, and I initially got off-route that way. Instead, step slightly down and move right 10 feet, looking for gear (orange or red Metolius I think). This works with doubles; with a single rope you might consider climbing more directly to this point (runout?). Climb up and step right to be above that cam, and you've reached the crux of the pitch. Move up on marginal feet to reach holds at the next overlap and more gear, then up and right to the big belay ledge. I'd call it 5.8+ or 5.9- and PG13.
P4, I clipped the bolt, moved up the right face of the arete, then stepped left onto the arete. Step left again onto the face without any hands (crux), then move up and left still without hands (still crux). 5.9+ and PG13 as that bolt gets further below you and around the corner. Once you reach the hands the climbing gets easier. I made this a long pitch, joining Standard, then up a mossy right-facing corner to belay at trees below the slab finish of Thin Air.
P5, Slab finish of Thin Air. Unprotected, probably 5.7 but feels easy after what you've been through.