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 ADVANCED
West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Pummeling, The S 
Repulsion S 
Sandman S 
Tommy's 11+ S 

Repulsion 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Bill Launder
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 27, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is the third route in from the left on the Pummeling Sector, and the rightmost of the trio of routes you first see at the top of the approach trail. It can be distinguished by the black Metolius hangers on most of the bolts, and climbs a sustained, gently overhanging face up a grey/black water streak on killer stone. Thankfully, this route has little or no Fortress Powder on it.

    Climb past the first bolt on a clean, grey face into a patch where some big blocks fell off. Move through a rooflet, then continue up the face on sidepulls and bear-hug moves on bizarre, mini-corners. A small, final roof before the finishing slab might be the pump crux. It's a bit runout from the final bolt to the anchors, but there are good edges up there--you just need to take the time to find them.

    A second pitch could be added, most likely. This could be one letter grade harder or easier than 5.12c. I dunno.


    Protection 

    14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).



    Comments on Repulsion Add Comment
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    By ac
    Apr 16, 2004

    Hey Matt:

    Are you guys using the Powers 5-piece zinc plated bolts or the Fixe SS wedge bolts for the news routes here? Is there much seepage in the limestone at the Fortress?