||Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1500', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A0 [details]|
|FA: ||B. Greenwood, J. Horne, R. Wood & O. Woolcock, 1971. F.F.A.: J. Horne & M. White, 1974|
|Season: ||Late Spring to Early Fall|
|Page Views: ||306|
|Submitted By: ||Jordan Ramey on Jul 24, 2012|
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Reprobate is an old school classic that winds its way up a large right-facing dihedral on generally solid rock at a sustained 5.7 grade. The crux of the route is a short A0 section (Free: 5.10a or 5.10c if you're short) that can be aided through by pulling on fixed pins or a fixed rope that is often present.. The first two pitches are quite loose, but the belays are well protected.
This climb starts on the prominent 100m high pinnacle that is just a few minutes past where the approach trail meets the wall.
Normal trad rack: cams to 2" and a set of nuts. Belays are bolted or have multiple pins, except the second belay which is one pin and a good nut.