Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Michael Friedrichs and Sean Bradley, 1988
Page Views: 1,565 total · 14/month
Shared By: Drew Thayer on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the right-facing corner just left of Spectreman. It is an attractive line, if you climb the grade you'll want to climb it. This gets a 5.11c grade in the Kelman book and an intimidating 5.12b PG-13 in the Orenczak book; quite a discrepancy. I figured I'd give it a go and find out for myself, the gear is a bit tricky, but it protects well and has a sustained crux that keeps you fully engaged for a few body-lengths. It is no gimme and has fun movement.

As to the grade discrepancy, .11c seems a little mean sitting right next to Spectreman, but there's no way this is .12b, or PG-13 rated. In all fairness, I'd reckon Spectreman is .11a and Repoman deserves a stout .11+.

Location Suggest change

Just left of Spectreman, it is the alluring, right-facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

C3s, Aliens, and Camalots to #1. There are two sets of anchors, it's obvious which one is more modern.

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