This is the second route from the left end of The Cornerstone.
Head up the slab to a little roof (possible to clip 1st bolt to the left), and pull through using an undercling and small right hand seam which leads to a jug by the 4th bolt. Continue on easy terrain to a 2 bolt anchor, up and left (shared with the 5.9/10 route to the left).
6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.
Jul 25, 2003
I know Boulder Canyon grades are soft, but this route is stretching it a bit. It definitely has one tricky move, but that doesn't make for a 12a. Like almost all of the newer Boulder Canyon sport climbs, let's knock it down two grades. That would be a bit more honest.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Try it when it is humid out. Felt like 5.12 to me and my partner then.... Triple clutching and deadpointing onto slippery slopers.
Maybe the 'jug' is gone? I sure went off of some small stuff and had a series of moves rather than 1 move. Had more trouble with this thing than other 12s I've been on lately, but you could wander way off route and make it very easy. The whole cliff if pretty packed in and contrived.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Jun 28, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
I'm with Bubbster on this one. He usually downgrades everything, so if he says the move is 5.12, it surely is at least that. I've tried this several times, and I can't even figure out what the move is supposed to be, and like Tony says, it's not just a single move but a couple of hard moves until you get to a jug. The feet just seem non-existent. It's bolted close enough to French-free through the crux if you finally give in.