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Replicant 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 22, 2010
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Description 

A decent and scary-ish first pitch leads to a hanging belay and a BEAUTIFUL slightly overhanging finger corner. The guidebook gives this .11d, but I thought the corner pitch was right on .12a.


P1: 5.11b Rish - Start on a thin crack in the face under the roof. Navigate a loose block and clip a bolt. Traverse right into the dihedral/roof crack. Finger-traverse right across the hanging face to the arete. Pull the roof and ninja-kick your way to the 2 bolt belay anchor.

P2: .11d/12a - If you like finger corners, this pitch might be a religious experience. Perfect rock, amazing jams, technical stemming and pressing, beautiful exposure. Finish at a nest of old stoppers.

Getting Down: You can rap from the top with a 70m line. Otherwise just stop midway and rap again at the P1 anchor.

NOTE: I pulled the roof on P1 over 2 '-iffy' #0s placed on the arete. If these blew, and you didn't find any gear in the middle of the traverse, you might deck from about 50+ft. There is a placement on the traverse, but there was a pissed off bat living in it and I did not want to crush him. With that placement you wouldn't deck but you wouldn't have a good day either.


Location 

Very obvious line a few routes right of "Cage Match"


Protection 

I brought a single rack from #1C3-#3C4, 2x#0tcu, small stoppers, and some extra (4) yellow tcu sizes for P2



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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Agree on the 12a rating. This is one of the region's best.

There is a new line bolted that crosses Replicant at the top of its first pitch, coming in from the right. This gives you the option of avoiding the wide 11b chimney, and instead doing some nice 5.11 face climbing. It also allows you to link the two pitches of Replicant together. Also, there are now bolted anchors at the top of the dihedral. Do it!