Matt and I replaced all the lead bolts and anchor bolts on Genesis, both P1 & P2. We were 7 out of 7 getting those 3/8" studs out cleanly. Some were really easy, some were hard. The method requires some finesse. First we release the collar and attempt to spin the stud for 1 or 2 minutes. In theory this will grind a ridge in the wedge so that the collar cannot slide over it and the bolt will slip when we pull it using the Greenlee hydraulic punch driver. Sometimes you can spin the bolt right out of the hole. Sometimes you have to go back and forth between pulling and spinning. Adding water to the hole while spinning seemed to help as well.
Thanks for doing this. That's awesome. I've been wanting to get up on the second pitch of this climb all season, but I just haven't gotten around to it. Now that the bolts are all shiny, I guess I don't have any excuse.
Thanks, guys. Anyone else interested in helping and/or learning how to cleanly remove & replace bolts - send me a message. Mechanical engineers are especially welcome to join me on the next re-bolting job. The tools are still being re-designed as we go.
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