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Replaced all the bolts on Genesis (Eldo)

Original Post
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

Matt and I replaced all the lead bolts and anchor bolts on Genesis, both P1 & P2.
We were 7 out of 7 getting those 3/8" studs out cleanly. Some were really easy, some were hard.
The method requires some finesse. First we release the collar and attempt to spin the stud for 1 or 2 minutes. In theory this will grind a ridge in the wedge so that the collar cannot slide over it and the bolt will slip when we pull it using the Greenlee hydraulic punch driver. Sometimes you can spin the bolt right out of the hole. Sometimes you have to go back and forth between pulling and spinning. Adding water to the hole while spinning seemed to help as well.

4 belay bolts and 3 lead bolts pulled out of the wall on Genesis. New hardware is all 1/2" SS 5-piece bolts w/stainless hangers.

This little guy came out to critique our work.

Brad.mering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 30

Gregger,

Thanks for doing this. That's awesome. I've been wanting to get up on the second pitch of this climb all season, but I just haven't gotten around to it. Now that the bolts are all shiny, I guess I don't have any excuse.

Really, really appreciate all of your hard work.

Joseph Crotty · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 1,903

Matt and Greg thanks for the effort and expertise. Eldo community is so blessed to have you two.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

Thanks, guys.
Anyone else interested in helping and/or learning how to cleanly remove & replace bolts - send me a message. Mechanical engineers are especially welcome to join me on the next re-bolting job. The tools are still being re-designed as we go.

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Thanks Greg and Matt!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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