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 ADVANCED
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 
Unknown Right Arete T 

Repeat Offender 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Allen Sanderson & John Steiger July 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Jul 15, 2012

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Description 

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up and perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M. Boulder up to the blob, step right around it continue up trending slightly left to a broken head wall. The headwall has lots of nice holds for both the feet and hands. Finish at a flat ledge. Belay here with natural gear or continue up and to the left to the anchors for Minimum Security.

Location 

Look for a 2'x2' blob of rock approximately 20 feet up perhaps 10 feet to the left of S&M.

Protection 

Small nuts, TCUs, and small cams. When you see opportunities for gear, place something. A 1" cam works great for protecting mid way up the head wall. A PG rating was given as a 5.8 leader might find the protection opportunities a little difficult.


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