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 ADVANCED
Jemez Falls
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Jemez Falls T 
Renovation of Expectation S 

Renovation of Expectation 

M7+

   
Type:  Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus: M7+ [details]
FA: Teague Barto, Scott Beguin, and Dave Mills
New Route: Yes
Season: winter
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jan 28, 2008

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Dave Mills on the upper headwall. Photo taken by T...

Description 

This is a climb that consists of some mental and technical balancy mixed climbing. The crux is at the fourth bolt pulling the over hang. If you bust through the crux be sure to keep a cool head for the finishing headwall.

Location 

The obvious rock face to the right (south) of Jemez Falls proper. Walk off or rap back down.

Protection 

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Renovation of Expectation Slideshow Add Photo
"Boots" Barto getting the FA.
"Boots" Barto getting the FA.
"Boots" bustin' it past the crux.
"Boots" bustin' it past the crux.
Renovation of Expectation is the face to the right of Jemez Falls.
BETA PHOTO: Renovation of Expectation is the face to the right...

Comments on Renovation of Expectation Add Comment
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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 30, 2008

There is currently ice on the bottom and some snow/frozen mud on other parts. We were out there yesterday and it was in form to kick our butts. It might be harder than M7. It definitely requires some endurance. Go do it Marc. Tell us what grade you think it is. There is also more route potential to the left of the falls up the overhanging rock, M10 or harder maybe?