Renovation of Expectation M7+
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| Type: | Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | M7+ [details] |
| FA: | Teague Barto, Scott Beguin, and Dave Mills |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | winter |
| Submitted By: | Scott Beguin on Jan 28, 2008 |
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"Boots" Barto getting the FA.
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Description This is a climb that consists of some mental and technical balancy mixed climbing. The crux is at the fourth bolt pulling the over hang. If you bust through the crux be sure to keep a cool head for the finishing headwall.
Location The obvious rock face to the right (south) of Jemez Falls proper. Walk off or rap back down.
Protection Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.
"Boots" bustin' it past the crux.
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Dave Mills on the upper headwall. Photo taken by T...
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BETA PHOTO: Renovation of Expectation is the face to the right...
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| Comments on Renovation of Expectation |
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By Scott Beguin
Dec 30, 2008
| There is currently ice on the bottom and some snow/frozen mud on other parts. We were out there yesterday and it was in form to kick our butts. It might be harder than M7. It definitely requires some endurance. Go do it Marc. Tell us what grade you think it is. There is also more route potential to the left of the falls up the overhanging rock, M10 or harder maybe? |
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