Renovation of Expectation
||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 70'
|Consensus: ||M7+ [details]|
|FA: ||Teague Barto, Scott Beguin, and Dave Mills|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||594|
|Submitted By: ||Scott Beguin on Jan 28, 2008|
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Dave Mills on the upper headwall. Photo taken by T...
This is a climb that consists of some mental and technical balancy mixed climbing. The crux is at the fourth bolt pulling the over hang. If you bust through the crux be sure to keep a cool head for the finishing headwall.
The obvious rock face to the right (south) of Jemez Falls proper. Walk off or rap back down.
Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.
"Boots" Barto getting the FA.
"Boots" bustin' it past the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Renovation of Expectation is the face to the right...
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 30, 2008
There is currently ice on the bottom and some snow/frozen mud on other parts. We were out there yesterday and it was in form to kick our butts. It might be harder than M7. It definitely requires some endurance. Go do it Marc. Tell us what grade you think it is. There is also more route potential to the left of the falls up the overhanging rock, M10 or harder maybe?