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Renaissance 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,006
Submitted By: Stacy Bender on Oct 6, 2002

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BETA PHOTO

Description 

As you approach Fortress Wall on the Access Fund trail, Renaissance is just to the left, and can easily be identified by the impressive roof about 30 or 40 feet up.

Pitch 1: Follow a crack up in the left-facing corner under the right side of the overhang. After reaching the overhang, work the horizontal crack under the roof over to the left side and continue up through a challenging off-width. There is a good ledge about 20 feet further, or if rope drag is becoming a factor, belaying directly above the off-width works too. This pitch is strenuous 5.10: around 60 to 70 feet.

Pitch 2: Guidebook descriptions of this pitch are complicated, but it's really not that bad. With a little common sense route finding, work up about 150 to 160 feet, using cracks, face, and flakes, until you see the rappel anchor to the left. It's a long fun pitch with nothing harder than 5.9.

Descent: Rap down with two ropes or walk northeast to a fairly easy gully. Raps are 65 and 155 feet; however, one rap using 60 meter ropes reaches the ground.

Protection 

Wide rack up to a #3 Camalots.


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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 10, 2002

It is not as bad as it looks, pulling the roof is 10d and pulling the offwidth is also 10d, two very separate cruxes on the same pitch, utterly perfect. The OW is short enough that you don't need anything big, a #4 camalot will do fine. On the second pitch there are lots of places I'm not willing to fall off. Definately not R if you don't pass up good pro when it presents itself. A must do route, sweet in every way.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Jun 8, 2007

At the top of pitch one, you can now traverse right a few feet, and there is a bolted rap anchor.