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Renaissance Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Renaissance Wall
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Consequences T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dakota S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Decisions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Don Quixote T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pharoah's Child T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Renaissance Wall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Scottish Cannons T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trials of Copernicus (P1) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Elevation: | 8,608 ft |
| GPS: |
40.4064, -105.53474 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 13,345 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on May 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
The incredible Renaissance Wall is hidden deep within the formation of the Book. At the far left side of the book, just before the Bookmark Pinnacle and just after the Isis Buttress, follow the deepest of the 'pages' in the book to find an incredible slot canyon with tall granite walls featuring excellent routes on either side- welcome to the Renaissance Wall. Popularized by the cutting edge 3 pitch route of the same name (Renaissance Wall 5.12c) established by Mike Caldwell and Randy Ferris in 1992, this area has become host to a number of Lumpy Ridge testpiece routes, both sport and trad. Here you will find Tommy Caldwell's 'Country Boy' 13d, which remains Lumpy's hardest route even 12 years after its first ascent. This seldom done route saw its first all gear placed on lead ascent just last year (2008).
The area offers a welcome relief from the blazing hot summer sun and relentlessly low angles that characterize most Lumpy Ridge climbing. However, don't toss out your Miura's quite yet; routes here are extremely technical and require a similar level of precision footwork and crimping as one would expect elsewhere at Lumpy, just on a much steeper angle. Rock quality here generally increases as you climb higher up the wall, but chossy sections do exist everywhere, so be mindful of potential rock fall.
Remember to practice Leave No Trace when at the Renaissance Wall and please hike all the way back down to below the book if you find yourself in need of a #2 potty break.
The area offers a welcome relief from the blazing hot summer sun and relentlessly low angles that characterize most Lumpy Ridge climbing. However, don't toss out your Miura's quite yet; routes here are extremely technical and require a similar level of precision footwork and crimping as one would expect elsewhere at Lumpy, just on a much steeper angle. Rock quality here generally increases as you climb higher up the wall, but chossy sections do exist everywhere, so be mindful of potential rock fall.
Remember to practice Leave No Trace when at the Renaissance Wall and please hike all the way back down to below the book if you find yourself in need of a #2 potty break.
Getting There
Hike as you would to the Book, then follow the cliff line to the climbers left around the Pages Wall and the Isis Buttress. The Renaissance Wall is located far back in a cleft on your right, just before you encounter the Bookmark Pinnacle.
Classic Climbing Routes at Renaissance Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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