Removing Bolts

What is the consensus on pulling out bolts that are not needed on climbs - i.e., if someone bolts a crack that easily takes pro, should the bolt be yanked?

Brandon,

There is no consensus. Some will say that every bolt next to a protectable crack should be removed, some will say it's the first ascensionist's right to install a route any way they want, some will say it depends on the ethic of the area, and some will say it depends on the type of rock.

My advice: tread very carefully here. Contact the first ascensionist if you can. Think about what benefits the climbing community as a whole. Someone going up on a sport route with only quickdraws could be in a world of hurt when they discover that a critical bolt high on the route has been chopped, and they don't have any trad gear with them.

Don't worry, I'm not actually going to crow-bar out any bolts. However, I read the comments on the Boulder Canyon Sport Park area, and it seemed to me that perhaps removing unnecessary bolts in an area like this would deter the placement of unnecessary bolts in the future. Plus, I was hoping to get everybody all riled up...

i think ron and jason gave some good points...
at shelf road you will find cracks with bolts, in which case, it would be bad to pull them out. no one climbs trad there. (basically)
although, if someone put bolts up a crack in bolter canyon, maybe they should be removed... it is a catch22, talk to local climbing community members that frequent the area/route in question!

Live and let live Brandon. Do your routes the way you want to. Bolt or don't bolt cracks. Lead by example. If you don't like bolted cracks go find some that you can do the FA on without bolts. As already mentioned talk to the folks that did the FA perhaps they would rather not have it on the route any more. Spend your time climbing and have fun.

I've grappled with the deterring factor of bolt removal as well. Maybe it helps, maybe it doesn’t. . . .
In an area that has already been accepted and deemed a “sport park”, chopping bolts from traditional topography will get you nothing less than a new bolt and hanger; i.e., another one will replace it rather quickly. However, removing bolts from an obviously traditional route, in my view, is honorable. Some climbers have absolutely zero ethics in regards to climbing; or care about repercussions delivered by non-climbers (due to aesthetics). So, removing bolts from traditional climbs can be healthy for climbing and its future. But, just because there’s a crack next to a bolt doesn’t mean that it should be chopped – if the crack doesn’t have room for gear, just hands, then obviously you could destroy the climb by removing the bolt (or maybe turn it into an aid climb).
I agree that the outdoor gym mentality is nothing but a detriment. . . just think it through before you remove what at first seems to be an obnoxious hanger.
Also, contacting the FAs, when it’s possible, may not get you too far. . . I mean, they did put that bolt there in the first place. It’s still the best approach to take. . . just don’t expect too much more than an argument.
Anyone placing bolts should look at it thru the eyes of serious traditional climbers, and non-climbers. . . or simply accept the loss when they’re removed.
One more thing: don't use a crowbar fer crissakes!! Remove the nut and hanger and then tap the bare stud back and forth with a hammer, until it breaks (you know, like you would a piece of wire) - don't overdue it or you'll damage the rock; if it's a straight bolt, then just unscrew it.