Remnants of a Party Follows a prominent left-facing corner system for four pitches. Start by climbing ta right-facing flake and a straight in crack that gradually shrinks. Anchor for the first pitch are visible fro the ground.
P1- 5.10 weird but good accepts good gear. Crux is a little tricky had to place nuts and move up on suspect gear. offsets would have worked well here. 2 bolt anchor with
P2- 5.9 great pitch. Nice hands the whole way. pitch has BD 1,2,3 and 4 placements. 2 bolt anchor
P3- absolutely amazing if you like off width and squeezes. pull a small roof into the squeeze, move up and place 5 or 6 high, pull a small roof into fists, and move on fist and biceps for friction to the anchor. 2 bolt anchor spread wide w/rap rings (weird)
P4- mixed reviews! i thought it was exciting and adventurous climbing. flared chimney with good gear in back, climb into a stem, move your way up to a roof with good holds, good feet and great placements. pull roof to the anchors. 2 bolt anchor not equalized (we added webbing for equalization.)
See Zion Climbing guide by Bryan Bird for TOPO.
One climb to the right of Gypsy's Curse. East end of Cragmont.
2 ea ti 4.5" 1 ea 5" nuts, 2 60m ropes. Rap the route./per book description. (I took black diamond 2 ea .3-5, 1 ea #6 (6-optional, but very helpful), and a set of nuts.
|By Ryan Hill|
From: Oakland, CA
May 7, 2014
Stellar route, had a blast on it this afternoon!
A couple notes:
Easily rappels with one 60m rope, though getting to the anchor on pitch 2 is a little frightening as you have to swing into it, backing up your rappel is a great idea.
Offsets protect the crux move on P1 quite well, thanks to the OP for the suggestion!
For gear I would say that doubles from .3-5" is sufficient, especially if you have a set of offset cams for P1. A #6 is optional, but can be placed. The top of P3 begs for a #3, so think about saving one of those for the top.
I highly recommend this route. Great climbing, shady, and out of the wind. Get on it!