Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cragmont
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gypsy's Curse, The T 
Lap Dance T 
Reggaetone T 
Remnants of a party T 
You and You T 

Remnants of a party 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Bird, Joe French, Eric Draper, and Nate Brown
Season: North Facing
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: skeers on Sep 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Remnants of a Party Follows a prominent left-facing corner system for four pitches. Start by climbing ta right-facing flake and a straight in crack that gradually shrinks. Anchor for the first pitch are visible fro the ground.

P1- 5.10 weird but good accepts good gear. Crux is a little tricky had to place nuts and move up on suspect gear. offsets would have worked well here. 2 bolt anchor with

P2- 5.9 great pitch. Nice hands the whole way. pitch has BD 1,2,3 and 4 placements. 2 bolt anchor

P3- absolutely amazing if you like off width and squeezes. pull a small roof into the squeeze, move up and place 5 or 6 high, pull a small roof into fists, and move on fist and biceps for friction to the anchor. 2 bolt anchor spread wide w/rap rings (weird)

P4- mixed reviews! i thought it was exciting and adventurous climbing. flared chimney with good gear in back, climb into a stem, move your way up to a roof with good holds, good feet and great placements. pull roof to the anchors. 2 bolt anchor not equalized (we added webbing for equalization.)

See Zion Climbing guide by Bryan Bird for TOPO.


Location 

One climb to the right of Gypsy's Curse. East end of Cragmont.


Protection 

2 ea ti 4.5" 1 ea 5" nuts, 2 60m ropes. Rap the route./per book description. (I took black diamond 2 ea .3-5, 1 ea #6 (6-optional, but very helpful), and a set of nuts.



Comments on Remnants of a party Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Hill
From: Oakland, CA
May 7, 2014

Stellar route, had a blast on it this afternoon!

A couple notes:
Easily rappels with one 60m rope, though getting to the anchor on pitch 2 is a little frightening as you have to swing into it, backing up your rappel is a great idea.
Offsets protect the crux move on P1 quite well, thanks to the OP for the suggestion!
For gear I would say that doubles from .3-5" is sufficient, especially if you have a set of offset cams for P1. A #6 is optional, but can be placed. The top of P3 begs for a #3, so think about saving one of those for the top.

I highly recommend this route. Great climbing, shady, and out of the wind. Get on it!