Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
(4) Music Hall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
79 Finals/F'ing Fall S 
Balcony Dihedral T 
Big Drum S 
Big Nose Valentino T 
Call Me Ishmael T 
Chinese Fiddle T 
Comeback Arete S 
Composure S 
Finger Crack S 
Harmless Horror T 
Last Huge Rock T 
Moby Dick T 
Mural Wall T 
Nancy's Attempt T,S 
Nut Pitch, The T 
Reluctant S 
Shield T 
Small Triangle T 
Steal Your Face T 
Three Right Feet T 
Undercling Jam S 
Wedding Route T,S 

Reluctant 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Reluctant topo

Description 

Listed as a trad route in the 2012 guidebook, but fully "re"-bolted in 2012 anyway. The line as climbed avoids the corner to the right, and thus solid gear placements are few and far between, making this a heady trad lead. Either way, it's a fun and too-oft-ignored route.

On the right side of a clean(ish) buttress, find the bolt about six feet off the ground. Move up this to a thin horizontal and a rightward traverse. You can cheat into the dihedral, but then you would be skipping the physical crux, which is well-protected. Move back left at the diagonal crack to an interesting rest below a small roof. Pull up on small holds to a crack-ridden slab and the technical crux of the route. Finish on big jugs to the ledge above and scramble to the strangely-placed anchors.


Location 

Leftmost (southern) bolted buttress at Music Hall, before the Broken Faces area


Protection 

Bolts (2012)



Comments on Reluctant Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -