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(4) Music Hall
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Finger Crack S 
Harmless Horror T 
Last Huge Rock T 
Moby Dick T 
Mural Wall T 
Nancy's Attempt T,S 
Nut Pitch, The T 
Reluctant S 
Shield T 
Small Triangle T 
Steal Your Face T 
Three Right Feet T 
Undercling Jam S 
Wedding Route T,S 

Reluctant 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Reluctant topo

Description 

Listed as a trad route in the 2012 guidebook, but fully "re"-bolted in 2012 anyway. The line as climbed avoids the corner to the right, and thus solid gear placements are few and far between, making this a heady trad lead. Either way, it's a fun and too-oft-ignored route.

On the right side of a clean(ish) buttress, find the bolt about six feet off the ground. Move up this to a thin horizontal and a rightward traverse. You can cheat into the dihedral, but then you would be skipping the physical crux, which is well-protected. Move back left at the diagonal crack to an interesting rest below a small roof. Pull up on small holds to a crack-ridden slab and the technical crux of the route. Finish on big jugs to the ledge above and scramble to the strangely-placed anchors.


Location 

Leftmost (southern) bolted buttress at Music Hall, before the Broken Faces area


Protection 

Bolts (2012)



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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Aug 19, 2014

One of the best at the grade and certainly much better than that fuckin' climb to the right...

Both Ryan and Greg climbed this and agreed the bolted line wouldn't go well on trad.