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(4) Music Hall
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Reluctant topo


Listed as a trad route in the 2012 guidebook, but fully "re"-bolted in 2012 anyway. The line as climbed avoids the corner to the right, and thus solid gear placements are few and far between, making this a heady trad lead. Either way, it's a fun and too-oft-ignored route.

On the right side of a clean(ish) buttress, find the bolt about six feet off the ground. Move up this to a thin horizontal and a rightward traverse. You can cheat into the dihedral, but then you would be skipping the physical crux, which is well-protected. Move back left at the diagonal crack to an interesting rest below a small roof. Pull up on small holds to a crack-ridden slab and the technical crux of the route. Finish on big jugs to the ledge above and scramble to the strangely-placed anchors.


Leftmost (southern) bolted buttress at Music Hall, before the Broken Faces area


Bolts (2012)

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