|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 800', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Larry Hamilton and Keith Bell, August 1973|
|Submitted By:||L. Hamilton on Apr 8, 2003|
|Comments on Religion||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Matt Juth
Jun 14, 2004
This just happened to a friend, so for the benefit of others....
Don't get suckered into the large, left-facing corner above and to the right of the start of P5, unless you are up for some more difficult climbing. We climbed this variation a couple years ago and it was 5.10 with a good runout in the middle. If you are up for it, it is a great way to avoid the two traversing piches (and remove one pitch from the climb's total). See Finding Religion....
By Jim Berg
Jul 13, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|One can also start the climb by bridging between the BIG block & the main wall. The gap was a little wide for little ol me to comment to jumping across. Note that doing it this way you will not get in any gear until to reach the crack system that is 15 to 20 feet off the deck. I recommend bring a few extra big pieces for the first pitch is wide. I split the first pitch into two for lack of having extra big gear. A couple #3 & #4 Camalots would have been nice to have.|
Sep 6, 2012
|Did this up to the meadow thinking it would be fun to link into the Direct South Prow. The first rope length of this route is pretty terrible. It starts as really fun handjams and laybacking but quickly turns to a complete nightmare, climbing on loose/wedged flakes up the weakness. Maybe there is a way to avoid this section, but I didn't find it.... Not recommended.|