This route does not see many leads. A great crack with some strenuous pro placements on the lower half. Start up the crack on increasingly smaller/slopey feet. Layback/jam up to a slight rest and some gear. The rock gets kinda crappy at this point and one should beware. Follow the thin seam to a good rest and watch out for bats! The climb backs off considerably at this point and a small traverse brings you to the chains. There's loose rock on the traverse and it's definitely not over until the chains are clipped. The lower half of this crack is generally moist in the spring and summer. The right hand finish goes at 12c. At the top of thin seam, milk your rest and get some gear in! Climb up and right to a sloped out crack. Go straight up from there on somewhat dynamic crimp moves. There's no gear aside from two pins that were hammered sometime in the 90's. Hats off to Dahlberg. The crack around the corner from "Jump Start."
full set of wires, set of aliens or tcu's (doubles extremely helpful), camalots #2-4, couple of shoulder runners/48''
|By Kris Gorny|
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Small Aliens are better on this route than the lowe balls. This route has a notoriously bad rock, especially in the middle (crux) and the upper sections. Belayers need to watch their head! The 12+ variation is in solid rock, though.
Nov 14, 2007
anybody willing to divulge more information on this route as a lead? especially interesting would be information regarding the movement, difficulty, safety, history, style, of the 12+ variation.
|By Travis Hibbard|
Nov 15, 2007
The bottom 10-15 ft can be protected with a small TCU or Alien, then there is a pod that I got a #3 Camalot to fit in. After that theres a chossy section that I got a nut in, not sure if i'd trust it or not. I did not lead this I aided it so thats what I can remember for gear. From there I took the 11 variation but if my memory is correct there were 1 or 2 fixed pins in the 12+ variation.
|By John Penrod|
Apr 12, 2009
For the 12+ direct finish I stacked a BD #2 and another cam in a nice hand slot below the good rest near the middle of the climb. starting the 12+ section you can sink a blue alien. The rest is small small nuts. Bring BD micro nuts, #1 and #2 BD nuts. There where two pitons in the seam. There is now only one. I broke one off on an attempt summer of 08. The other is sketch. I believe they where placed in the late 70's so beware. The anchors are rusty and should be replaced. Really fun climb. COMMITTING- Be careful.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
left variation: 10d, 2 stars, very dirty at the top
right variation: 12 b/c, 3.5 stars, great movement up high
also, it's of little use to place gear above the piton. the gear is jingus, and placing the gear requires a lot of time/energy. it's better, in my opinion, to just go for it. you can always back up the piton with some equalized pieces where the 11 and 12 variations diverge.
|By Ken G|
From: farmington, mn
Sep 15, 2013
I removed a loose block on this route today. It was about a twenty pound chunk located in the chossy area just before the crack goes left. Be cautious at the Bluff there is loose stuff everywhere.