Rejection and Mercy
|942 page views|
BETA PHOTO: topo.
Find a corner with two large blocks at the base. Climb the crack through a 12-foot horizontal roof. At the lip follow bolts up and right to the top.
Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.
|Comments on Rejection and Mercy
|By Chris Hirsch|
Aug 19, 2007
This route surprised me, I at first thought it was going to be filthy dirty and not fun to climb. But once cleaned it became amazingly fun to climb and one of the most aesthetic lines on the wall, especially since it's right in the middle of the amphitheatre and the steepest climb here.
Be sure to bring a lot of long draws, because rope drag over two LARGE roofs is a bitch. And the anchors are quite offset making them unequalized, which also twists up your rope pretty bad. Just a heads up.
And props to Paul for doing this route back in '98!
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 23, 2008
finally got on this rig. big moves at the crux (15' below final roof), preceded and followed by shorter moves between good, albeit dirty incuts. a long-ish climb, hop on this if your looking for something that uses the roof crack and packs more climbing than shorter climbs like hurtful but not as much climbing as, say, business time or no crack for old men.
take long draws for sure. at least three are needed. definitely place one right after the roof crack, then another one two bolts later. save one more for the bolt below the last roof. clip the lower set up anchors, those right over the roof.
lastly, i've heard linking the mono route into rejection and mercy is a fun link. i haven't tried it yet, but it would give the mono route more bang for its buck, as it's one of the (if not the) shortest routes in the steep part of the crag.
|By Paul Bjork|
Jul 7, 2008
Thanks, Chris, for cleaning it again. As I recall, a good part of the pump on the climb was finishing out the last 15 feet with totally blown arms. This climb was a a great challenge and catharsis for me at this point in my life. I hope that you enjoy it as I did.