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Reinforcing a hold
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Sep 26, 2012
El Tigre wrote:
As a general rule, any and everything you can get at Home Depot or Lowes is really just pretend shit. They sell glue-in epoxies, but for whatever reason everything they sell there has a bit of suck to it compared to professional outlets.

For the most part that is true, but there is one exception. Home Depot and Lowes sells Simpson Strong-Tie products, which is some of the best epoxy on the market. The Simpson SET 22 (which Home Depot and Lowes carries) is stronger than the Hilti RE-500 and RE-150 (as well as the previously mentioned A7) which are two of the most popular epoxies used in climbing. I have used many tubes of the SET 22 epoxy for anchoring glue-in bolts and the stuff is absolutely bomber. The state of Hawaii also uses the stuff for constructing buildings and highway panels.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Sep 26, 2012
I'm not a big fan of glue, but in some places it is appropriate. My experience with climbing on extensively glued stuff is, as I said, at the Riverside Quarry.

Not exactly a pristine, or natural environment. It's a freakin' decomissioned urban rock quarry and defacto dump site. Having been created by quarrying in a few years, rather than weathering over eons, there was (and is in some places) literally tons of loose or highly fractured flakes, shards, etc. Glue makes it work as a cragging area. And despite all then drawbacks, it is a pretty good resource to have for local climbers with long sport pitches on good granite.

I've also run into glue in Josh, a couple times where it just pissed me off, other places where it seemed the only reasonable solution if the route was going to survive beyond a few ascents or attempts (tiny flaky chips as the only holds).

There is glue 5' from the most famous boulder problem in the world, on the After Midnight problem (yes, that obvious hold after it goes left from ML is reinforced).
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,274 points

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