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Reinforcing a hold
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Sep 26, 2012
I'm not a big fan of glue, but in some places it is appropriate. My experience with climbing on extensively glued stuff is, as I said, at the Riverside Quarry.

Not exactly a pristine, or natural environment. It's a freakin' decomissioned urban rock quarry and defacto dump site. Having been created by quarrying in a few years, rather than weathering over eons, there was (and is in some places) literally tons of loose or highly fractured flakes, shards, etc. Glue makes it work as a cragging area. And despite all then drawbacks, it is a pretty good resource to have for local climbers with long sport pitches on good granite.

I've also run into glue in Josh, a couple times where it just pissed me off, other places where it seemed the only reasonable solution if the route was going to survive beyond a few ascents or attempts (tiny flaky chips as the only holds).

There is glue 5' from the most famous boulder problem in the world, on the After Midnight problem (yes, that obvious hold after it goes left from ML is reinforced).
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,275 points


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