Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) A3
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | A3 [details] |
| FA: | Brad White and Partner |
| Submitted By: | nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Description Great commiting aid route. Not much of a ground fall potential, but still heads up for the first 30+ feet. Follow a shallow right facing corner into a beautiful shallow groove with a couple thank god bolts from a free attempt (successful-Dave Sharrat 13+r. Around into another shallow right facing corner and the anchors
Location This route begans right of Wild Women and left of the beast and the alcove.
Protection Nailing rack, rp's, cam hooks, single set cams with mostly small.
| Comments on Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 27, 2009
| The free route is called 0.6, and it is 13c. My understanding is that Dave did not add bolts to this route. The two bolts were from aid climbers, as they really seem to be in the wrong place for free climbing (especially the second one).
0.6, by the way, is unique in the fact that it may be the only route in the East with a 5.13 chimney crux on it. |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 28, 2009
| I'm not sure exactly where the bolts came from, I was told it was from the free attempt. I added a bolt to the anchor thinking of a second pitch (all I did was think about it) and did not clip the bolts on my aid ascent. The bolts are unnecessary for aid climbing and would take away from the fun. As a free route I don't know how the pro would be. Scary! |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 13, 2013
| Sounds like the bolts should be moved then. If they are going to be there, they should at least be in the best spots, n'est-ce pas? |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 16, 2013
| Maybe after the second ascent... I was just rereading my post and Jay's, he chimneyed that groove!!! That being said this route free or aid is one of the most beautiful routes on the cliff. Still needs a second pitch, hooking or face climbing! |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 16, 2013
| If the bolts are not needed for either aid or free- they should be removed |
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