Reign of Dykes  5.11a/b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  variation to revolt/reighn of fire Submitted By:  burlap submariner on Oct 4, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

a nice variation to a already hard revolt of the dyke brigade....
1. climb the first pitch of revolt 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor. 9.+
2. Climb up and left on a dyke trending up towards a black slab aiming for three bolts. At the 3 bolt climb straigt up on 11- tricky face/slab to another bolt at a stance. climb up and right to the overhang on beelzebub and climb past two bolts (tricky after 2nd bolt) to the two bolt chain anchor on reign of fire/loose lips.

rap with two ropes to the ground

Location 

between childrens crusade and the ethereal butress
two (visible) bolts mark the start to the first pitch of revolt of the dyke brigade.

Protection 

3 quickdraws and anchors for first pitch, small to medium cams and draws for second pitch.

NOTE: Doing this pitch with a single rope would prove problematic, it's mutch better protected and you will have no rope drag if you use doubles.