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Rehearsal of Fortune 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: EFR, JSt,'08
New Route: Yes
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 1,278
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Yours truly on his way to proving why not rehearsi...

Description 

The opening moves are hard as well as the last steep crack section. It is a hard crack on Mt. Lemmon and that is cool. JSt, and Erik Murdock put in the anchors and 1st bolt. Many have top-roped it from the anchors on English Breakfast Crack. Last week I cleaned up most of the choss on the route. I figured out the pro and racked it in order before I lead it. Onsighting this will take some endurance and quick gear placements.

Location 

Starts on the right side of the Griddle which is the first wall you encounter at Sun Spots. The start is the same as English Breakfast Crack. Climb short crack to ledge. That square block that looks funky is quite solid. Neither route takes the blocky ramp to the ledge.

Protection 

1 bolt, pro to red camalot. You can take a big cam for the move to the chains but smaller stuff will work. Lots of good stoppers to be had from pinky to 3/4 inch.


Photos of Rehearsal of Fortune Slideshow Add Photo
Scott Conners on Rehearsal of Fortune.
Scott Conners on Rehearsal of Fortune.
Just prior to losing the battle with gravity.  Photo Jim Scott
Just prior to losing the battle with gravity. Pho...
Gabe Metzger with no rehearsal.
Gabe Metzger with no rehearsal.
Rehearsals lead to fortune for Jesse Schultz as he sends the route. Photo by Aleix Serrat-Capdevila
Rehearsals lead to fortune for Jesse Schultz as he...
The final move to easier ground.  Photo by Marc Vilaplana
The final move to easier ground. Photo by Marc Vi...
Gabe Metzger going for the first onsight.  Photo Jesse Schultz
Gabe Metzger going for the first onsight. Photo J...
Gabe proves that those little wedge things work.  Photo Jesse Schultz
Gabe proves that those little wedge things work. ...
Holding the crux stopper with your teeth is the key to redpointing this one.  :)
Holding the crux stopper with your teeth is the ke...
EFR on the FA of Rehearsal of Fortune.  Tons of folks have TR'd this thing off the anchors of English Breakfast Club.  Scott Conners was the first to do it on TR with no falls first try.  Photo by Marc Vilaplano
EFR on the FA of Rehearsal of Fortune. Tons of fo...
At the redpoint crux
At the redpoint crux

Comments on Rehearsal of Fortune Add Comment
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By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Dec 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It may be that I'm a weakling, but this climb feels stout at 5.11. No individual move is that difficult, but stacked up they make for solid line. Compared to other climbs of this difficulty that I have done it feels in the range of 5.11d/12a. I think that the difficulty might be very dependent on one's height. Overall it's a fun line, with a few crumbly foot holds, but good gear and nice movement.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Eric sent this route yesterday in cold 40mph winds! Way to go Eric!

I'm going to second Eric's comment here - this climb is harder than any 11d that I've been on, so I'm leaning toward 12a, too. Been taking 20 footers at the last hard move over the last two days & will be psyched when i send. :)
By Chris Prewitt
Jan 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a REAL finger crack; not many like it on Mount Lemmon. The 11b rating is consistent with other cracks of this kind in many other areas.

Randy onsighted this yesterday along with Solar Eclipse and Solar Flare. What a great day.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Chris- I think the crux is at the start (11+/12-), not the finger crack up higher. I agree the finger crack is much easier than the start, though. Even so I've logged some big airtime from the top of that crack due to pumping out. :)

Of note is that I think that Randy's onsight is the only first ever for this route! Well done Randy!
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Jan 9, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The beauty and drawback of difficulty ratings is that they are very subjective. One person's cakewalk is another person's epic. This is why sites like mountain project are so useful, as they develop a consensus to the difficulty and quality of a particular climb.

I appreciate that others have a different opinion on this climb, and that there are many who will find it easy in comparison to how it felt for me.

With that said, I would hesitate to call this a REAL crack climb. It is cool to have a climb like this on Mt. Lemmon that protects on gear, but it more of a face climb than anything. A fun climb to be sure though. As well compared to the true finger cracks that I have climbed at Squamish at this grade this one clocks in a bit more difficult.

Regardless, I'm glad people are getting on this climb and having fun climbing on gear. The rest really isn't that important.
By James McNabb
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 10, 2010

Has this route been epoxied? I was lowering off of English Breakfast Crack and thought I saw a glued flake. tisk tisk. looks great anyhow
By scottcundy
From: tucson, az
Dec 24, 2010

We pulled a pretty good size flake off of this route yesterday, and lots of smaller pieces too. The flake was about 2/3 of the way up the route. It looked solid.
By Jimbo
Dec 24, 2010

I'll call Baker, he'll glue it back on.