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Wildcat
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Regular Route 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: 1st recorded Ascent: Dewey Schluter, John Goncz, J. Mack Adams, February 7th, 1957
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Dec 13, 2009

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Looking up the Wildcat-Dingleberry gully. Dinglebe...

Description 

A peak bagger's route. From the top of Wohlt's Welt, traverse north into the gully between Wildcat and Dingleberry. Judging from descriptions on Ingraham's guide, I was prepared for this gully to be an hours -long struggle with vast hordes of under-growth. In fact, it appears a recent rock-fall event has scoured most of the lower gully clean. The lower gully ascends past the Guardian Buttress on the left, and an un-named sentinal on the right, and ends at a narrow spot where it joins a larger gulley. This spot, a narrow perch with a sharp spire off to the west (part of Guardian Buttress complex) Ingraham refers to as the "Swale".

Continue up the gully until close to the saddle between Wildcat and Dingleberry. Once near the saddle look for 3rd-4rth class scrablling up the rock wall on the north side of the gully. A short section of exposed scrambling puts you onto the S. ridge leading to the summit.Scramble along this ridge (some exposed 3rd class) all the way to the summit.

One of the nice things about the Wildcat summit is its close proximity to some other nice summits. From the Wildcat Summit, one can scramble over (4th or 5th?) to the Razorback summit. The wildcat summit is also close by. A multi-peak day is certainly achievable in this region, as would climbing several of the easier routes.

Location 

Approach this route via the Modoc Mine Rd on the West side of the Organs. A high-clearance 4x4 can drive most of the rd. Diverge from the rd at the huge boulders before the road's switchbacks. Follow "Wohlt's Welt" a ridge of ocatillo dominated terrain that leads NW towards the Wildcat/Dingleberry gullies.

Descent is by retracing the ascent.A rope and webbing may be handy for rappelling the start of the 3rd class scrambling. Alternatively, there is a brush/thorn filled gully on the east side of the south ridge that can be descended with some effort. This gully puts you just on the east side of the Dingleberry-Wildcat saddle. Ascend to the saddle by a 3rd class chimney of sorts to get back on the west side and descend.

Protection 

None required


Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Panoramic taken at "the Swale" on the de...
BETA PHOTO: Panoramic taken at "the Swale" on the de...

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