Regular Route 5.8 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Whitmar & Holden |
| Season: | dry |
| Submitted By: | Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Just past turning the corner and heading to the p1...
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife: * From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999) * From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead) * Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214) * Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation. The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect. Signage has been posted at strategic locations. Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Classic Pinnacles climbing. Locate the start, which is the most moderate looking face climbing protected by two lead bolts. The route takes a sharp right, pass another bolt, and turn the steep corner into a belay stance. Fun pitch, with great position. Ramble up the short and easier second pitch, clipping a couple bolts, enroute to the summit plateau. Anchor is located on the NE corner of the summit boulder.
Location Located near the right end of the east face of the Monolith. Walk over to the summit boulder and rappel back to the base from the anchor on the SE side of the boulder (rap lines kinda goes down the direct route). Single 60m rope.
Protection Three lead bolts on the first pitch to a bolted anchor. Pass two bolts on the second pitch to the summit, which has a bolted anchor. I seem to recall placing a cam or two so maybe a few nuts and cams makes sense for supplemental pro for this route. Otherwise, its fairly head's up climbing with well spaced protected.
Finale of the Regular Route.
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| Comments on Regular Route |
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By rhyang From: San Jose, CA Nov 26, 2010
| Brought gear (cams), but didn't use it. Draws / slings probably sufficient for most folks. |
By Christine Page From: San Francisco Apr 16, 2011
| At the top, climb the boulder and find a surprise at the top of it. |
By Ryan Nevius From: San Luis Obispo, CA Nov 27, 2011 rating: 5.8 PG13
| The starting moves to the first bolt are really good (5.8). The rest of the climb isn't anything special. I brought supplemental pro, but didn't place anything. |
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