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Looking up, about 2/3 of the way up
Can be pitched out however you want. I've done it in 10 pitches and I've also done it in 6 with a 70m rope to it's full capacity on every pitch.
Decent is a walk off to the right of the summit. Follow the trail down through some switchbacks, eventually you will reach an easy chimney downclimb, some people rappell this, some put their climbing shoes, on, some just do it. After this it follows the same trail through brush all the way down. If down in the later part of the summer this descent is lined with huge huckleberries! Some 4th class.
What rack you take depends on you experience. I now take singles in .5bd up to #4 tech friend, a set of nuts, and a few smaller cams. If not super solid on 5.6 or on building anchors in a vareity of situations I'd reccomend taking doubles. Runners really help with rope drag on full rope length pitches.
|Comments on Regular Route
|By R Squared|
Nov 12, 2007
If you simul climb you can climb this route in about four pitches. Runners do help. Watch for loose rock because it is all over the place. The walkoff off the back isn't bad. The trail is easy to follow. It beats rapping the whole way down. You don't need anything bigger than a number two for this route.
|By R. Emerson|
May 28, 2008
This is a great route for a seasoned leader to "guide" a confident novice up. The second pitch, a long traverse on a dike (similar to those at Lover's Leap, Tahoe, CA) where both the leader and the second are exposed to a lengthy fall is the mental crux. Then there are a few low angle pitches up to the crack system above. Above the crack system is a slightly run out pitch on a little bit steeper rock. I'm not exactly certain why it is called slick rock since the rock has amazing friction that was definitely experienced while climbing the last two pitches in an afternoon thunder/hail storm.
Aug 28, 2008
This was a few years back, but I remember a little a-frame crack move that requires some finesse to pull. It was toward the top, you pull into an apex with a finger crack above. I remember it being testy for 5.6.
Mar 5, 2009
The route is way longer than 700ft, when I climbed it back in about 1995, there was only 1 old bolt on the whole route (all belays were gear anchors), why did someone feel the need for more? I cacluated at the time there was about 1350 feet of climbing (we did it in 9 pitches). You might not need anything biger than a #2 (what brand?) but there are lots of opportunites to place #3 and #4 friends or #4 camalots too, if you are a new leader.
Nov 14, 2010
I first climbed it in 83 with my brother inlaw who lived in Mc Call. It was his first climb and he cruised it. He had never belayed so assumed I had no belay. I saw only one bolt and the route was run out in a good way.
In 93 or 94 I knew I was taking my 8 & 9 year old daughters up so I soloed it the day before. I found two or three new bolts from 83.
I think for a 5.6 leader it may be stiff and very run out. Even a 5+ what ever sport climber could get sketched.
As my daughters and I got to the bench where the climbing starts a guy said oh shit girls.
We were ready to climb they were not, closest they ever got was two or three pitches. We walked off to the right front in the rain; they waited it out so they could finish the climb.
Not sure how you would rap a largely slab route ( I remember more face than crack ) with maybe three bolts and no fixed belay stations. Even if you could sew it up you would be leaving a big part of your rack behind. We did the route in 10 full pitches with 165' ropes. The longest climb my daughters had done before was three pitches.
From: Boise, ID
Aug 7, 2011
Very fun route with a bit more variety than the other routes on the wall. Every pitch was great, and (also unlike the other routes on the wall) it is stout for the grade.
|By Brad Winters|
Aug 7, 2012
First 2 belays are bolted. Go far right above the dike to some flakes 200 ft then back left 200 ft to just left of a small pine tree and back in line with the rest of the route. Walk off is not bad. Drop down off the top and then immediately head right on the trail. Can rap the steep part at the bottom from the big curved tree with a 60.
|By Chris Volk|
Oct 20, 2012
Climbed Oct. 12, 2012 with Frank Gould. Started on Reg. Route and finished last two pitches on the 5.8 to the right. Due to the routefinding, length, moderate runouts, and one or two surprisingly stiff moves, I'd upgrade the rating to 5.7+. Made one rap in the gully on the way down to cope with steepness and loose rock. Took 6.5 hours on the climb due this being our first trip. Some loose rock here and there, which could be dangerous if the rope swipes off a saucer. Lovely climb!
|By Jeff Botimer|
Mar 30, 2013
Hands down one of my favorite climbs anywhere. The last time I climbed it I paid closer attention to the length of each pitch and I believe the route to be closer to 1200 ft.