Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Wally Reed, Chuck Pratt 8/58, FFA Steve Roper and Mark Powell 1962
Page Views: 89,349 total · 401/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Aug 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

P1: Lieback to fingers to a small belay stance (or continue up to large ledge with pine tree). (5.9)

P2: Hands to a wide pod to a ledge. (5.8)

P3: Sustained fingers (5.7) through a couple of small roofs to a ledge. (5.8)

P4: Incipient cracks head straight up, through where a large scary white flake used to be. Traverse up and right past two pins to huge "Crescent Ledge." (5.8)

P5: Follow right-facing dihedral on left side of ledge up, increasing in difficulty (5.6), or traverse left to the 5.5 R flakes. (5.6)

P6: Another dihedral up and left. Where it really steepens, step right onto the face past knobs and small placements. Either lieback on the right-hand side of the roof (5.7), or pull straight through at a pin (5.9).

P7: Follow ledges up and right, staying toward easier ground. (5.7 start, then 5.4)

About four more pitches of easy ground. Simul what you can. (mostly 5.0, occasional 5.4 to 5.6)

Location Suggest change

Park in a large parking area on the south side of the road. Follow obvious and signed trails to the slabs at the base of the dome. Take 3rd class slabs to the start of the route.

Descent: walk off the back side, and most of the way back to the start of the climb to regain climber trails back to the road.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack up to #3 Camalot. Plus double nuts for the 400 feet or so of simul-climbing.

Photos

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