Regular Route 

Did this one this morning (4/26/01) at 7am with Ben after we both pulled all-nighters. Best way to start a day/end a night in a long time. Crux is sticking that hand jam 30 feet up just before it cuts back right.

Great thin crack. Went for a 30 whipper on this one way back in the day. Small cams will pull out of the piton scars if you e not careful.

Even though I did this route on TR it still stands out in my mind as one of my favorite. Powerful climbing down low into a good rest, then more technical as the feet taper out. Since it is so close to the road I don't see why anyone would pass it up. BAD ASS!

This is an AWESOME route!!! Me and one of my friends did it on toprope since one had a cast. He was the only one who flashed it, too! He broke his pinky and ring finger and was jamming them into the crack! His cast was in shambles by the time he was done. Very cool rout

Don't be scared off of leading this sweet route by the lack of easy gear. If you take your time and fiddle stuff in, it can be pretty solid. There is a bomber rp just before the crux where the crack goes back right. Classic civilized (i.e. pin scarred) climbing!

Bad ass climb! It starts off nice and easy then the crux comes and feet almost dissappear! I Pulled it quick and finished upthe climb. Great pro if you look hard enough, I climbed it right at dusk so finishing in the dark was great fun, don't pass this climb up!

I was just up here last week, and quite personally, I think this is the worst route at practice rock. Though inarguably the hardest, it is so greased up that it is hardly worth the trouble. However, it does provide good trad practice for gear between 1 and 2.5 inches.

A greasy and polished, short pin-scarred crack. Classic if you're into that sort of thing. Strenuous and to be avoided in summer.

As to comment #one: NO SHIT. O decked on this thing a couple days ago. Pretty messed up. Karl.

Excellent route. I can't remember how many times I've climbed on it, but it always menaces us when we go to practice rock. Hard work and great practice. Hence the name? Great practice for aid climbing in the snow, rain, etc. too. Easily toproped off of a huge tree on top.

5.11- at hardest for folks with thin fingers. I used pinky/ring instead of first/middle and all the sudden I was hiking up it, little effort required. Good during cool temps, and I didn't find it to be too slick this time.

Climbed this in the evening of a mid 90's day. Not much grease. I'm from the East though so perhaps I just don't notice....however I didn't slick out of everything. Great movement and great crack practice. You can set up a TR here and run laps easily.

I am from Ukraine, climbed it with Paul in the evening, and also did not notice any grease....

Be really careful placing the gear I was belaying my friend on it and he fell at the crux where the crack zigs back right and ripped two pieces and almost decked. The gear is good if you place it just right but it is tricky. Enjoy this great crack and be safe.

There are bats in all of the cracks on this rock. I practically shook one's hand yesterday.

I have been waiting for a line like this for a while. Beautiful even if pin scarred. This is the only climb that I've been able to pull "THE SPACKER" on. A Must. No grease when I went there, but I was there around 7 pm or later using a headlamp.

A fantastic TR and a MONSTER lead for all you heroes out there.

As for "grease," I thought the occasional right foot IN the crack itself was fuck slippery, but friction feet against the wall stuck as well as you could expect them to. Hellishly strenuous, that way, though. Great for the pump; suggestion: try multiple b-2-b laps if'n you're going to top rope....

This is a great first aid climb. Make sure if you set up the anchor prior you extend the sling over the lip, otherwise it is difficult to reach.

It's a good one, for some reason we found this easier than the 10b flake next-door. It took fiddling with gear at the crux would love to get back and lead it clean. Here's what I remember placing (it was like 3 hours ago, but short term memory... you know how it goes):

-#2 BD to keep you off the deck at the first wide part.
- Something thin past that, maybe a blue Metolius or similar (if needed, it's not hard to the jug), then to the "jug" before it zags left,
-you can place a 0.75 if you reach far up, this one held a whipper for my friend.
- up past that a 0 TCU in a pinscar at the crux seemed quite solid but wouldn't hold much more than a 3-4 footer reliably,
- you can then place a good small nut.
I put in a #8 Metolius Astronut, but a #1 nut would fit in there nicely, then run it out to the rusty pin.
- clip the pin, get to a nice rest and throw in a solid red Metolius (0.5?) cam in a big pinscar on your left and make the exit moves out right.
Anyone ever taken the line completely left instead of zagging back right?

That's an embarassing amount of spray for me, at least it'll help me remember what to place for next time.

Lots of fun! I didn't notice much in the way of grease, but it is certainly a polished line. Gear was plentiful and solid, not to mention good stances for getting it in. It seems like a good line for those breaking into 11s on gear, although I'd imagine sausagy fingers would make things a bit tougher.
Also, bats aplenty in the bomber jam down low.

This is a really approachable lead. The gear is good all the way through the route albeit a bit thin. Have some C3s or equivalent ready right before the crux where the crack gets thin. Excellent route even though it is a bit short.

This is the softest route I've ever been on. 5.10c at best. Come on, guys, this is supposed to be Boulder, land of climbers....

I got my first taste of clean aid on this route this weekend. Really fun moves with consistently good gear.

To all the trad leaders, my hat goes off to you.