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Dark Magic 
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Thin Crack 

Regular Route 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Putnam, 1971.
Page Views: 3,260
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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'The Crack' during a Winter climb of the Regular r...

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Description 

Start in the center of the rock, at the left crack that moves up and joins another from the right about ten feet off the deck. Move up to the tip of the triangle where the two cracks join, and then follow up and left. The crux is halfway up this crack section. Zag a final time and finish. There are some sweet hands jams in a pin-scarred crack.


Protection 

Some 10 foot slings should work. We have seen this as an aid climbing practice route. Standard rack up to #2 cam.



Photos of Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
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Clint Locks retries the crux that spit him off a few minutes earlier.
Clint Locks retries the crux that spit him off a f...
Nancy Hobbs, after only four months of climbing, ready to take on the 11b crack climb. Hard core!
Nancy Hobbs, after only four months of climbing, r...
Clint again. Hard to believe these pictures were taken in the middle of January, eh?
Clint again. Hard to believe these pictures were t...
Comments on Regular Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 12, 2014
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2001

Did this one this morning (4/26/01) at 7am with Ben after we both pulled all-nighters. Best way to start a day/end a night in a long time. Crux is sticking that hand jam 30 feet up just before it cuts back right.

By T. Maino
Jan 1, 2001

Great thin crack. Went for a 30 whipper on this one way back in the day. Small cams will pull out of the piton scars if you e not careful.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 15, 2002

Even though I did this route on TR it still stands out in my mind as one of my favorite. Powerful climbing down low into a good rest, then more technical as the feet taper out. Since it is so close to the road I don't see why anyone would pass it up. BAD ASS!

By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
May 18, 2002

This is an AWESOME route!!! Me and one of my friends did it on toprope since one had a cast. He was the only one who flashed it, too! He broke his pinky and ring finger and was jamming them into the crack! His cast was in shambles by the time he was done. Very cool rout

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
May 23, 2002

Don't be scared off of leading this sweet route by the lack of easy gear. If you take your time and fiddle stuff in, it can be pretty solid. There is a bomber rp just before the crux where the crack goes back right. Classic civilized (i.e. pin scarred) climbing!

By Matthew Brejcha
Mar 31, 2003

Bad ass climb! It starts off nice and easy then the crux comes and feet almost dissappear! I Pulled it quick and finished upthe climb. Great pro if you look hard enough, I climbed it right at dusk so finishing in the dark was great fun, don't pass this climb up!

By Scott
Jun 20, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I was just up here last week, and quite personally, I think this is the worst route at practice rock. Though inarguably the hardest, it is so greased up that it is hardly worth the trouble. However, it does provide good trad practice for gear between 1 and 2.5 inches.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2004

A greasy and polished, short pin-scarred crack. Classic if you're into that sort of thing. Strenuous and to be avoided in summer.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 4, 2005

As to comment #one: NO SHIT. O decked on this thing a couple days ago. Pretty messed up. Karl.

By estifallen
Apr 24, 2007

Excellent route. I can't remember how many times I've climbed on it, but it always menaces us when we go to practice rock. Hard work and great practice. Hence the name? Great practice for aid climbing in the snow, rain, etc. too. Easily toproped off of a huge tree on top.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

5.11- at hardest for folks with thin fingers. I used pinky/ring instead of first/middle and all the sudden I was hiking up it, little effort required. Good during cool temps, and I didn't find it to be too slick this time.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Climbed this in the evening of a mid 90's day. Not much grease. I'm from the East though so perhaps I just don't notice....however I didn't slick out of everything. Great movement and great crack practice. You can set up a TR here and run laps easily.

By Peter
From: Tempe, AZ
Aug 1, 2008

I am from Ukraine, climbed it with Paul in the evening, and also did not notice any grease....

By Dave Cummings
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Be really careful placing the gear I was belaying my friend on it and he fell at the crux where the crack zigs back right and ripped two pieces and almost decked. The gear is good if you place it just right but it is tricky. Enjoy this great crack and be safe.

By jon mouser
Aug 19, 2009

There are bats in all of the cracks on this rock. I practically shook one's hand yesterday.

By Nick Fury
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I have been waiting for a line like this for a while. Beautiful even if pin scarred. This is the only climb that I've been able to pull "THE SPACKER" on. A Must. No grease when I went there, but I was there around 7 pm or later using a headlamp.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

A fantastic TR and a MONSTER lead for all you heroes out there.

As for "grease," I thought the occasional right foot IN the crack itself was fuck slippery, but friction feet against the wall stuck as well as you could expect them to. Hellishly strenuous, that way, though. Great for the pump; suggestion: try multiple b-2-b laps if'n you're going to top rope....

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jan 22, 2011

This is a great first aid climb. Make sure if you set up the anchor prior you extend the sling over the lip, otherwise it is difficult to reach.

By germsauce
Apr 28, 2011

It's a good one, for some reason we found this easier than the 10b flake next-door. It took fiddling with gear at the crux would love to get back and lead it clean. Here's what I remember placing (it was like 3 hours ago, but short term memory... you know how it goes):

-#2 BD to keep you off the deck at the first wide part.
- Something thin past that, maybe a blue Metolius or similar (if needed, it's not hard to the jug), then to the "jug" before it zags left,
-you can place a 0.75 if you reach far up, this one held a whipper for my friend.
- up past that a 0 TCU in a pinscar at the crux seemed quite solid but wouldn't hold much more than a 3-4 footer reliably,
- you can then place a good small nut.
I put in a #8 Metolius Astronut, but a #1 nut would fit in there nicely, then run it out to the rusty pin.
- clip the pin, get to a nice rest and throw in a solid red Metolius (0.5?) cam in a big pinscar on your left and make the exit moves out right.
Anyone ever taken the line completely left instead of zagging back right?

That's an embarassing amount of spray for me, at least it'll help me remember what to place for next time.

By BrianWS
Aug 3, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Lots of fun! I didn't notice much in the way of grease, but it is certainly a polished line. Gear was plentiful and solid, not to mention good stances for getting it in. It seems like a good line for those breaking into 11s on gear, although I'd imagine sausagy fingers would make things a bit tougher.
Also, bats aplenty in the bomber jam down low.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

This is a really approachable lead. The gear is good all the way through the route albeit a bit thin. Have some C3s or equivalent ready right before the crux where the crack gets thin. Excellent route even though it is a bit short.

By Dan Dalton
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2013

This is the softest route I've ever been on. 5.10c at best. Come on, guys, this is supposed to be Boulder, land of climbers....

By Page Weil
May 13, 2013

I got my first taste of clean aid on this route this weekend. Really fun moves with consistently good gear.

To all the trad leaders, my hat goes off to you.

By Allen Chaney
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great route, parked to go do Cosmosis and noticed this line from the road. Not 11b I don't think but fun nonetheless. I thought the gear was solid - a few bomber stoppers, a #1 C3 in the crux seam, and a great #2 C4 as the crack jogs back right.

I found a green c4 and an orange quickdraw as I was topping out, please message me to claim them (include the initials that are marked on the cam's webbing)!

By erik rieger
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2014

This is a really nice route—one of the best finger cracks in the canyon—and great for training laps. It's 11a, straight up.