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All Locations >
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
Regular Route - Direct Start
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 0.6 from 5
votes
Routes in 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
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Hail To The Chief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route - Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South by Southwest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Unknown, off-route climbers |
| Page Views: | 1,517 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Feb 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route is followed by parties in a hurry to get on the Regular Route. They can't believe how high it begins and they start at an area which seems to fit the route description. This route joins the regular route in the middle of the traverse along Main Ledge.
Begin 100-200 feet lower than the normal start (climbers right). A hundred feet up is a tree which you may convince yourself must be the one on the regular route (it is not). Climb a 5.7 pitch to this tree.
Above things get steeper and the difficulty increases. Follow thin cracks up the vertical face to Main Ledge. This section is much more sustained than the crux of the regular route.
This may be the "NE Chimney (5.8)" route described in Stever Roper's 1971 guide. It is in the same area, but there is no chimney on this route!
Begin 100-200 feet lower than the normal start (climbers right). A hundred feet up is a tree which you may convince yourself must be the one on the regular route (it is not). Climb a 5.7 pitch to this tree.
Above things get steeper and the difficulty increases. Follow thin cracks up the vertical face to Main Ledge. This section is much more sustained than the crux of the regular route.
This may be the "NE Chimney (5.8)" route described in Stever Roper's 1971 guide. It is in the same area, but there is no chimney on this route!
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