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Refugees From Reality 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 420', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer '05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,016
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 12, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hike uphill from Stifflers Mom (east) to the black roofs at the top of the "hill". The route starts to the left of the black roof.

P1. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+.

P2. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up to the roof, clip two bolts and continue up passing a bolt to a funky highstep. After high step hand traverse clipping bolts to belay. 5.12a

P3. Climb left clipping a bolt and keep going left in undercling, climb up passing 3 bolts to a roof. Plug in some cams make a few fun moves to the lip, clip bolts and do some harder slab moves to belay. 5.10+


Protection 

A 70 meter rope will put you on dirt in 2 raps from the top. rack: doubles on TCUs and a handsized cam, lots of long runners.



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By tenesmus
May 28, 2007

I had the "set" for trying to onsite it but...

This is a really cool route with great protection. You gotta be able to climb a little steepness and a little slab and more steepness, then more slab. It brings together the spectrum of LCC skills and goes really fast too.

The second pitch is more fun than the 5th of Stifflers. You need a handsized cam to get up into that roof so don't leave it with the second. Some may like an extra couple of bigger finger sized pieces in addition to those other two bolts but I thought it was fine without.

thanks for the printable topo - and the work to put it up there. Was this one done ground up too?

By Nubbins80
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Great climb! I felt like my back was going to crack in half making the first move on the ledge of the black roof.

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Good climb. The first pitch is lame, but necessary. The second pitch is good STEEP fun; a finger-size cam works well after the bolt above the big roof and before the 'funky highstep.' The third pitch offers some fine slabbing; again, a finger size cam helps protect the slight runout between the first and second bolt (easy ground).

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 18, 2012

A great accessible route for those looking to get on something above their head, but don't want to be super committed. We got up this thing at about a 5.10+ C1 rating over the 5.12 section. Really really fun route!