Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: The Uriostes and Stephanie Petrilak, 1979
Page Views: 18,546 total · 76/month
Shared By: George Bell on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


132 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a decent route which is not as time consuming as Swain's topo would indicate. The first 6 pitches in his topo easily go in 4 rope lengths, even with a 50m rope. The route goes to the top of the wall, but the climbing deteriorates above here, plus there are no fixed anchors, so most parties rappel after the first 4 pitches, so take two ropes.

This route is on the left side of the Black Velvet wall and gets very little sun, if any. A good choice for a warm day. Start near the left margin of the wall, 40' left of a huge block leaning against the base of the crag.

P1: Climb a short crack up and right, past a bolt, continue up crack and face to a 2-bolt belay on a ledge (150').

P2: Step left and climb up into a corner system to the top of a pillar on the right (with tree). Above and right of the pillar there is now a bolted belay, the problem is this is probably 190' from the previous belay, plus the geometry can make for heinous rope drag. We stopped atop the pillar and then moved the belay 30' over to the bolts.

P3: Here is where Swain's topo is confusing. Step right onto the face and follow an obvious crack up. For the most part, this crack is 1-3", but for some short sections it is wider, but you don't have to get into the thing. Belay after about 150' at a tree (marked the end of pitch 4 in Swain's topo), 5.9.

P4: Climb a lower-angle section past loose blocks to the base of a huge right-facing corner (visible in photos). Don't climb the corner system, but move left onto a steep face left of the corner, and follow at least 4 bolts to a bolted belay (careful with rope drag on this pitch).

At least one party has gotten confused at this point, continuing on because they believed they were lower on the route due to the pitch lengths listed in Swain. They report that the next anchor is a joke (for rappelling off of), so consider this anchor "the point of last return". Either rap now or continue upward.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to #4 Camalot (although I do not remember using the #4). Two ropes.

Photos

loading