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 ADVANCED
Turkey Perch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Englishman T 
Cold Turkey T 
Easy Chimney T 
Gobble Up T 
Gobbler's Cobbler, The T 
Honky Jam Ass Crack T 
Lack Crack (originally entered as Moderate 2) T,TR 
Left Handed Jew T,TR 
Liquid Acrobat T,TR 
Mark of Zorro T 
Moderate 2 (originally entered as Lack Crack) T,TR 
Moderate 1 T,TR 
Ragger Bagger T 
Reefer Madness T 
Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Width T 
Short and Sweet 
Steppenwolf T 
Stiff Little Fingers S 
Turkey Sandwich T,TR 
Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch Offwidth T,TR 
Wide Chimney T 

Reefer Madness 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,156
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (142)
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Tristan, age 14, leading Reefer Madness.

Description 

Turkey Perch has a lot of nice one pitch climbs that can be either led, or TR'd. One example is Reefer Madness, a nice crack going up the middle, right behind a tree. I guess you could TR this, and the ones right next to it, but the climbs on the right or left of the wall are better for that. This one takes a nice crack that curves left at the top, and climbs a slab up to the overhang/block. Traverse around to an easy scramble to a tree anchor at the top.

Protection 

Rack up to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Reefer Madness Slideshow Add Photo
Reefer Madness.
Reefer Madness.
Chris on the start of Reefer Madness.
Chris on the start of Reefer Madness.
Tristan leading Reefer Madness.
Tristan leading Reefer Madness.
The route.
The route.
Darin Lang leading Refer Madness - just to the right is Ragger Bagger.
Darin Lang leading Refer Madness - just to the rig...
Luke toproping on self-belay.
Luke toproping on self-belay.
Tristan on Reefer Madness.
Tristan on Reefer Madness.
Luke toproping on self-belay. Ragger Bagger is the inset to the right of Luke.
Luke toproping on self-belay. Ragger Bagger is the...
Jamming the crack.
Jamming the crack.
Me nearing the crux. <br /> <br />Photo Mark Kummet
Me nearing the crux. Photo Mark Kummet
Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.

Comments on Reefer Madness Add Comment
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By Chris Fisher
Aug 13, 2001

I thought this climb was at least a two star. A great finish to this climb instead of the easy scramble is to climb directly through the overhand into the horizontal cracks above known as The Mark of Zorro (5.9).
By William Prehm
Sep 7, 2001

This is one of my favorite climbs on the perch. The double parallel crack at the start is excellent and I love the way the crack moves to the left and peters out towards the top which forces you to do some face/slab moves to the crack under the roof. I recommend saving a few small cams for the end of the crack. (Blue or Green Alien)
By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
Dec 5, 2001

A great climb. Comfortable all the...way....uh...OH!!! there goes the crack. Nice friction climbing at the end and an exposed little step left.
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 4, 2002

Yah, not sure why I gave it only one star? This was one of the first routes I put up on the site... But, all things considered, I'd agree that it is at least a 2 star line, if not for just the name alone..;_ Great jamming, fun move at the end... However, there is no shortage of good lines in this area!
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is VERY GOOD... I don't understand the low quality rating.
By Andrew
From: Lakewood
Apr 2, 2007

Yes, this climb was indeed some VERY nice climbing. Crux was the transition onto the face up top.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Apr 23, 2007

Agreed, excellent line. The upper half is really fun (even the slab-moves). 3 stars from me.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I loved this climb. The wider crack near the bottom was the technical crux for me, but I loved the top where the crack curved left. I ended up doing the left curve essentially as a layback, then had to follow with an exposed slab step to top out when the crack disappeared. Good stuff!
By doligo
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Left #4 back in the car - found it wasn't needed on this climb.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 18, 2013

A lot easier then Gobble Up at 5.8. The finish was the best part! As mentioned, a 4 isn't completely necessary but can be used.