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Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kem Johnson, Mark Axen, Rich Thompson (Direct: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Randy Mettler)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,486
Submitted By: Steve Pulver on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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mt. lemmon or the sierras??


Direct start to this route is pretty good. We skipped the sling belay shown in SQ II, combining the final two pitches with a 70 meter rope. This may work with a 60, but if it doesn't you're going to be hating life.


Direct start is on jugs into a small overhang.


If you're like me, then you'll want everything.
A small selection of nuts (including a #1, or an RP for the dihedral in the final pitch), doubles of Camalots sizes .3"-1", and a single #2, and #3.
Maybe even a third .5" Camalot would be good.

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By Paul Davidson
Jun 8, 2010

First ascent party spent a couple of hours under the roof waiting out a big rain storm. When it finally passed, Kym Johnson was so anxious to get outta dodge that he took off up the slab in rather wet condition. There's more to the story that I can't recall right now.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 19, 2014

Reefer Direct is the way to go. Way better than traversing the ledge. You could easily combine pitch two and three by placing gear in the horizontal you use to move left. A half dozen shoulder lengths will keep the rope drag down.
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