Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Kem Johnson, Mark Axen, Rich Thompson (Direct: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, Randy Mettler)|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,057|
|Submitted By: ||Steve Pulver on Jul 1, 2008|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Tricky slab moves just before the anchors on top o...
Direct start to this route is pretty good. We skipped the sling belay shown in SQ II, combining the final two pitches with a 70 meter rope. This may work with a 60, but if it doesn't you're going to be hating life.
Direct start is on jugs into a small overhang.
If you're like me, then you'll want everything.
A small selection of nuts (including a #1, or an RP for the dihedral in the final pitch), doubles of Camalots sizes .3"-1", and a single #2, and #3.
Maybe even a third .5" Camalot would be good.
|Photos of Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct Slideshow
Sweet crack at the top of pitch 3. Great pitch ri...
mt. lemmon or the sierras??
|Comments on Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct
|By Joe Lee|
From: Las Vegas
Jun 8, 2010
This climb is right on par for the Reef. Be prepared for some bold climbing.
A standard rack should be fine. I backed off the direct start but coming in from the left worked out. Might want to bring your machete. We also linked the third and fourth pitches with a 70 meter. I'm not sure if a 60 will reach but I wouldn't risk it.
|By Paul Davidson|
Jun 8, 2010
First ascent party spent a couple of hours under the roof waiting out a big rain storm. When it finally passed, Kym Johnson was so anxious to get outta dodge that he took off up the slab in rather wet condition. There's more to the story that I can't recall right now.