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Reef Lightly 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 533
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on Sep 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Dean testing his ape index on the start of Reef Li...

Description 

The bottom comes out a small roof to difficult climbing with the crux just above the second bolt (though one could argue clipping the first bolt is the crux). The whole climb is plagued by poorly placed bolts but the moves are decent if a bit contrived. Above the small ledge are easy, juggy moves then a scramble to the anchors.

The bolting on this route appears old, and it would probably be a service to remove the bolts, patch the holes and rebolt with modern hardware in better spots.

Location 

The left route on the Shooting Gallery Face.

Protection 

5 draws + 2 draws for the chains.


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By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 27, 2008

Some locals are collecting money to rebolt many routes at the Pit, I'm sure they'd love input on what is most desperately in need of new hardware. Best way to comment and/or contribute is probably to call Vertical Relief 928-556-9909
By CO_Michael
Apr 12, 2009

The route has 5 bolts and the big jug over the lip is SHARP.
By Brian Krupitzer
Feb 26, 2014

Somewhat agree with the statement about poorly placed bolts in the description. While working out moves to clip the second bolt (which felt like some of the hardest), I took a fall with very little extra slack in the rope, and ended up barely decking, with my butt swinging into the ground. Maybe that was my fault. Maybe it was my belayer's. Maybe the bolt couldn't have been placed much higher. But it happened, so watch out.
By Christopher Parke
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Second bolt is super awkward to clip if you don't get the right hand sequence. Had to downclimb and resituate, as a fall from the second bolt unclipped is a definite deck. After that, cool moves through the crux to easier climbing above. No bolts between the ledge and the chains, but is relatively easy climbing (5.8ish). A fun climb with a sassy start.