I rarely give a route I am involved with 4 stars (seems a little egotistical) until more people have climbed it and there is a concensus. The bits of lichen in a few areas may take half a star off for some. I make an exception here as this one I think deserves it. The bits of lichen in a few areas may take half a star off for some. Two options on the first pitch an 11- left facing corner to a right arching flake or an 11+ face and finger crack 15 ft. to the right. Bring a red blue and a yellow camalot for the first pitch then let the second carry them. Pitch 2 angles up and right past 3 bolts then works up overlaps to a perfect finger crack angling up and left to bolts that take you to the anchors at the end of the second pitch. This airy belay puts you right above your belayer and a 140 foot free rappel to the ground. If you have two ropes leave the second one here as a single 70M rope will get you back to this anchor. Pitch three angles up and left to a horn that can be slung. The flake around the corner that looks bad has been yanked on with full body weight. We now jam and stand on it. From the horn head up aretes past bolts and gear to a short right leaning corner. Long slings for the next 4 or 5 pieces will really help with rope drag. You will finish by working up and right on an ever narrowing ramp with a single bolt visible above it at it's end. Two more bolts lead to the anchors above. If you only have a single 70M rope lower or belay each other about 20 feet down the ramp to climbers right. From here two raps down Rogue Planet will get you to the ground.
Cracks left of the main corner weakness on the north face. Works right to the jagged aretes that form the right side of the corner weakness.
Bolts and gear. 1st pitch singles up to blue camalot unless you do the 11+. After that doubles up to Purple camalot and a set of stoppers from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch. Take at least 6 extendable draws and 8 quick draws.
Looking down from the horn on pitch 3. An airy ha...
EFR redpointing pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: This is the route with the hard to see left start.
Looking down at pitch 2
Steve Brown on Pitch 3
Julie B onsighting pitch 1
Clay M on pitch 2
|By Eric Sophiea|
Sep 18, 2013
Fantastic climbing! Endless fun and interesting moves. Standing on the horn that is just off the second belay will make your head explode! Be sure to take a moment and look around from this unique feature. Near the end of pitch three, to get up a ramp with a roof overhead, I did a "crouched duck-walk" (with hands in the crack at your feet and 200 feet of air below you) that was very fun and rather weird (tall guys will hate it). Thanks for the great route!
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
This route is tremendous!! We started on the left side for pitch 1, which is a great warmup for the climbing above. The second and third pitches have great exposure and a bunch of fascinating, unusual moves. On the third pitch, the horn, arete, crux, and ramp make for one of the best pitches at the reef.
On the final pitch look for the ramp on the right as you finish the bolted crux. The route heads up and right toward the ramp using gear for protection.
EFR put up the majority of the ground up with the help of patient belayers.