Reef #1 is a small rock that holds 4 bolted routes on its west face. Each route gets progressively harder from left to right, ranging from 5.7 to hard 5.10. The routes are approximately 50 feet high, and end at a set of fixed anchors. Also, a toprope could be set by running up a gully on its north side.
Walk to the old road that is next to the signin for South Seas. Take a left and follow it a short ways, passing rocks on your right. When the road starts curving away to the left, take a right on a small trail which leads right to Reef #1. Look for a crack/gully feature with bolts leading above it - this is Old Number 8.
Old Number 8 starts in the prominent crack just right of Way Cool Junior. The first bolt is high off the deck, but could be easily protected with trad gear though it isn't particularly hard here.The crux is the bolted climbing above, and is fun Rushmore face climbing. Hopefully bolts have not been added to the easily protectable bottom of this route as some other Rushmore routes have recently been degraded with....[more]Browse More Classics in SD
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 17, 2002
Running up a gully is a bit of an understatement. There are some moves of exposed 4th class at the top, but nothing unreasonable to do unroped. The 4th class descent is on the left side of the formation around the corner from Way Cool Junior.
Which route is old number 8? There are four climbs on this rock. Does anybody know if old number 8 is to the right or left of the crack in the middle of the rock, or what the fourth route on this face is called?
From left to right. The first route is "Way Cool Junior" the second route with the crack is "Old Number 8" There is a bolt somewhere above the crack. The third route is "Some 5.9" with the three bolts with "Skin to Win" being the last route of the four.