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Reed's Pinnacle Area
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Reed's Pinnacle Left 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 
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Steppin' Out 
Stone Groove 

Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957
Page Views: 3,207
Submitted By: Linnea Williams on Nov 24, 2008
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Mary leads the third pitch.
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>


This is a meandering route that features primarily 5.8 hands, stemming, etc. The highlight of the route is definitely the awesomely bizarre and incredibly fun squeeze tunnel at the third pitch. It will make you feel what it's like to be a nut jammed in a perfect constriction.

On the final pitch, once you're on the sloping ledge, don't continue up left, but traverse right onto easier ground.

You could do the last two pitches (tunnel and 5.9 hands) after topping out on Reed's Direct, if you were so inclined.


Pro to 3.5. A No. 4 Cam will make you happier at the start of the final pitch.

Don't miss the piton in the middle of the tunnel. It's up fairly high.

Photos of Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Waiting to head into the infamous chimney.
Waiting to head into the infamous chimney.
2nd pitch <br />Climber on left is topped out on the 2nd pitch of the Direct route.
2nd pitch
Climber on left is topped out on the 2nd...
Comments on Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route Add Comment
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By fivefun
Sep 12, 2011

The 5.9 variation on P4 is great fun. The OW at the top can be protected with a #2 and #4. I found taking your helmet off to be very useful in the squeeze, just don't fall.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957

By nick.laws
Oct 30, 2012

I had to climb up and over and down at the piton to fit through the squeeze (6'1" but my chest stuck). My smaller partner was able to go directly through below the piton.