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Reed's Pinnacle Area
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Reed's Pinnacle Left 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed, Gary Colliver, 11/1962 FFA: Frank Sacherer, Dick Erb, Larry Marshik, 1964
Page Views: 1,612
Submitted By: dean rose on Jan 29, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: looking at the left side of Reed's Pinnacle from b...
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Description 

Pitch 1 takes the cavernous looking back and foot chimney to a stance at some slung chockstones.
Pitch 2 follows the 5"-7" wide crack in the back of a left facing dihedral to a ledge where the tunnel thru on the Reed's regular route emerges. From here one may escape to easier ground by working right above the short hand crack, or stay left for full value and finish with a short bit of 5.9 OW to the top of Reed's Pinnacle.


Location 

Route is located a short ways west of Reed's Direct route
Descend by two rappels down the east side of Reed's Pinnacle the first one is short and the second one is long requiring two ropes.


Protection 

pro to 7"



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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 30, 2007

climbing left-side in is probably easier for second pitch

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 29, 2010

p1. long about 120 ft. mostly small and medium gear , two pitons. chimney all the way, deeper is more secure, but harder.
p2. about 80 feet
lower and medium ow is relatively easy and protected with small gear one bolt and one piton. Upper ow is overhanging and hard and protected with
#6 friends and #5 cam C4. If you climb left side in [easier] you'll find inside ow crux small crack/ edges/side-pull -which help tremendously

gear I used single from green alien to #5 cam C4. Two #6 friends

By Rob Dillon
Apr 4, 2010

Nice to know what you can leave on the ground, Alexey- thanks.

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jan 25, 2011

The p2 OW was much easier for me right side in. The hard part is only a few feet until you can reach out left and palm off of a large feature.

The final "5.9" OW at the end of the direct finish was the crux of the whole route for me. Very awkward irregular pod thing that I just couldn't figure out how to climb gracefully. And the whole time I was worried I was going knock my #6 out of place with all my flailing and deck on the ledge just below.

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jan 25, 2011

Just to the left of Reed's Pinnacle is a 90 ft tall flake and is listed in the Reid guide as "10b var". This isn't an alternate start to the Left Route as the topo implies, but it does make for a fun single pitch climb. There is a short 5.10- crux in the start where you wrestle with some chock-stones in the back of a steep offwidth. After that it's an easy chimney to the top of the pinnacle. The only gear you need is a #6 camalot to protect the start and then some hand and thin hand pieces to build a gear anchor at the top. Making your own anchor to bring up the second is much easier than trying to belay off the rap slings/ropes.

By Della
From: SLC, UT
May 31, 2012

I definitely found right side in easier on P2! I got about 15 ft up off the little ledge left side in only to slide right back down. Also, beware of a loose block about 15 ft off the belay.
Anyone know what the arching OW on the other side is? (Tunnel through to get to it.)

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 2, 2014

recently climbed it again.
P1 5.8 is stout and do not take any big gear you need to use on p2. Leave it for the follower.
One #5 and one #6 would be sufficient to protect crux p2.
Nothing changed for "side in" preferences- it is still much easier for me left side in