Helen bouldering at Houda Point, Humboldt
Extending from the San Francisco Bay up to the Oregon border, the Northern coast of California is unique in its climate, laid back atmosphere, and its climbing. It's a bit off the beaten path for most I-5 travelers but the snaking Highway 1 and 101 cling to the coast and tie it all together with breathtaking scenery.
The climbing here is more subdued than many other California or Northwest areas and sees relatively little traffic. Many older routes and bouldering areas have little recorded information which can give the traveling climber a feeling of "new discovery" not found in many areas. Most of all, the climbing here is quite diverse with routes on sandstone, graywacke, limestone, gabbro, granite and quartzite. Where else can you grab some backcountry turns, fire off a route or two, hit the surf for a sesh, pull some highballs and still make the potluck by 6:00?
Getting to the Redwood Coast involves winding roads, no matter which way you are coming from. From the Bay Area or the Oregon Coast follow Highway 101 north or south. From the Northeast (Southern Oregon, Portland or other Northwest locales), follow I-5 exiting in Grant's Pass to Hwy 199 to 101 south. From the East (Tahoe, Sierra, Colorado, etc) find your way to Redding on the I-5 corridor. Take 299 until you hit 101. The Eureka/Arcata area is the population hub of the Redwood Coast. Arcata is a college town and is home to Humboldt State University and has all of the usual amenities found around schools. There is a thriving music and bar scene (5 micro breweries in the county) with action most nights of the week. Gear shops are located in Arcata and Eureka. After a hard send, check out TOMO (click the Eureka/Arcata link for food and lodging) on the Arcata Plaza-Great Sushi!
Browse More Classics in Redwood Coast
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Redwood Coast:
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Featured Route For Redwood Coast
: Redwood Coast
: Lost Rocks
Start on the prominent undercling with polished feet reach to a good flake then pull on some incut crimps, from the crimps make a move to a dicey sloper. Matching the sloper is the crux once you get it fire up to good holds and top out. Very fun moves and high ball depending on sand levels....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
California dreaming, Humboldt
A view of the Trinity Alps from the ski approach t...
Earn your turns for burns. Sunset Spire, December ...
The Alps on the first day of the new year.
The Lost Coast.
Josie on Case Dismissed (5.11c), Land of the Lost
Marc punching for the flash on Humbilly 11a/b. Sna...
Wild azaleas at LOTL.
Redwood Coast sunset on the way down from LOTL.
A misty Humboldt afternoon.
Pity da Fool, 12c on the Mr. T wall. LOTL
Marc going for it on She's Got Jugs.
The full moon rising over the Trinity Alps viewed ...
Looking north to Trinidad Head, Humboldt County
Jim French on Karma Kazi, 5.11, Trinity Aretes
TR attempt on Leper Messiah, 13a. So-So Grotto. Fa...
Joe McDaniel sticks the throw at Moonstone.
Milking the last of the Humboldt corn on June 2,20...
The Co-op in Arcata, Humboldt County
Karhu enjoying a day a the beach, Houda Point
Tim topping out on Ten Gallon Hat (5.8), LOTL
Marc leading Low Tooth Count(10a), Snag Crag, LOTL...
The Big Chopper.
Dry lightning cell that was part of the system tha...
|Comments on Redwood Coast
|By Rick Shull|
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Oct 24, 2006
A great guidebook for the Redwood Coast is Bigfoot Country Climbing. It is written and illustrated by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello and is available at gear shops in Arcata and Eureka. Both of these climbers have worked tirelessly to put up dozens of routes in the region.
|By Rick Shull|
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Sep 12, 2012
I guess Land of the Lost is getting popular enough and there are enough routes that I should put all of my route info on MP. I've been waiting to "do it right" with all of the history and photos. It will probably be later in the Fall before I can get it done but if anyone has any route questions feel free to email me.
Mar 10, 2013
Any good gear routes on the North Coast? Yes, I know I'm living in the wrong place. Still curious though. I've done the 1st pitch of Blackbeards Tears at Promontory, and pretty much everything at Moonstone that goes on gear (and isn't x-rated). Is the stuff at Patrick's Point any good? So-So Grotto? Trinity Aretes? Secret splitter granite within Arcata city limits?
|By Matthias Holladay|
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 11, 2013
If splitter means cracks, IDK - But, the superb mausoleum in the cemetery is the secret architectural granite gambit in city limits. It's, in my mind at least, the best climbing in town with its arÍtes, pinches, edges and moulding, all the way up to the frieze or cornice!
Last time I was there, I was so sad because the nice big trees had been cut down; they used to add an element of cover for our delicately-timed buildering sessions...