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Rabbit Rock - Southwest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Go Spud Go! S 
Hyperspuds T,S 
No Satisfaction T 
Redtail S 
Roughleg T 
Seasonal Employment  T 
Spuds in the Gym S 
Sudden Pleasure S 

Redtail 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan and Pat Sperlock 1989
Page Views: 3,294
Submitted By: John Bradford on Jun 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Bryan at the cruxy start...

Description 

A fantastic route, long and sustained with thin face moves and an airy finish. Start in the crack and work up right onto the face. This route is located on the Spud Wall, and is directly across from the trail junction between the East face of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire. Two ropes to get down.

Protection 

15 bolts to chain anchors. A large camming device can help protect the opening moves. Use a long runner.


Photos of Redtail Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up the route, Sudden Pleasure is to the left.
Midway up the route, Sudden Pleasure is to the lef...

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By Nathan Fisher
Oct 13, 2005

I sat and watched someone climb that from Morning Glory, and Redtail looked a blast.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 29, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

best 5.11 clip-up at the city
By Bryson Slothower
Jul 19, 2006

two thumbs up!!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route. I found the climbing too inconsistent (the whole top third is only 5.9) to rate this "classic", but still a great route.
By ktmt
From: Missoula, MT
Nov 15, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Highly recommend! I thought this was stiffer than Sudden Pleasure, which seems barely 5.11, whereas this climb, at lest onsight, felt solid for the grade in a couple of places. The moderate climbing in the upper half is cruise city, absolutely enjoyable.

Can descend with one rope by belaying second up, then rapping to Sudden Pleasure anchors and a second rap to the ground. Works great for firing a bonus lap on Sudden Pleasure.
By Kevin Volkening
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Agree with the inconsistent nature of the climb, still fun! Dont bother with the suggestion of a piece for the opening moves
By Ian Cavanaugh
Aug 25, 2014

80m rope once again proves to be the ticket at the city. 42 meter pitch, down easily with rope stretch.
By Rich Kelly
3 days ago

I was able to rappel and clean down to where I was level with the anchors on Sudden Pleasure, move over to it and pull the rope and then rappel from it and then clean the rest of my draws from Redtail with a 60mm. It requires just a bit of effort towards the bottom to move rightward to grab the last few draws.