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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,395
Submitted By: adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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June on Redside!

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


Dig deep as the difficult tips start to this climb is only the first crux. Difficult to place gear if laybacking this part. Where your techniques transition will dictate the location of subsequent cruxes. Getting your first knee is a relief that doesn't seem to come soon enough. Transitioning from stacking to armbarring is tricky. This climb will work you through every size and manner of big jams.


This is the gradually widening tips to offwidth/squeeze crack to the right of Wondertwins


A little bit of everything from micro cam to #9 Valley Giant. Can be done without the Valley Giant with big enough nuts. Exit right to a nice biner anchor.

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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 21, 2011

I'd hesitate to call the start tips. It's BD 0.4 or 0.5 sized which is fingers for most... Also you can walk a #6 to within about 10' of the finishing jug. It definitely feels heady to climb above it after giving yourself a walking top-rope for the majority of the route, but is by no means dangerous or really particularly bold as it's just below your feet when you latch the jug.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I watched Jeff onsight this for the first known ascent. Super impressive climbing and ultra modest of him to grade it 10+. Ha!

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